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Mount Paris Dam in North East Tasmania. The Cascade river is flowing through a large purpose-made hole in the dam wall.
Mount Paris Dam, Tasmania

Now reclaimed by bush, the 1930’s Mount Paris Dam still stands as a monument to depression-era innovation and hard work.

Where is Mt Paris Dam?

From Tin Dragon Cottages turn right onto the Tasman Highway (A3). Drive up over the hill out of Branxholm. Just past the town boundary, turn right into the Mt Paris Dam Rd (C425)—set odometer to zero. This is a gravel road which is well maintained and suitable for a small car.

Briseis Race to Derby

Less than 1 km along the Mt Paris Dam road (0.7 km) there is a small car-parking area on your left. From here you can walk a section of the historic Briseis water race all the way into Derby. The track was cleared by volunteers as a community project over 10 years ago. The first short section (<1 km) is an easy walk worth taking. But the remainder is for experienced walkers only. It may be very over-grown. However, if you persist you might meet up with the Kings Wall!

Ah Foo Road

At 11.3 km along the Mt Paris Dam Road, Ah Foo road turns off to the right . Then this road winds uphill from Mt Paris Dam Road to Mt Paris and the abandoned Ah Foo’s tin-mining camp. During late Jan- Feb, the flowering Trigger plants clothe the mountain in a pink haze.

Like much of the region, this area has been extensively mined and logged. However the landscape has a stark, rugged beauty.

This is a 4WD track. Forestry removes the signage when they are logging in this area. So you may not find the road signs!

A young man is walking along the stone wall of an abandoned water race. The stone wall is surrounded by re-growth bush.
Briseis water race
A gravel 4WD track is filled with water and surrounded by a stark landscape with low-growing bush and rock heaps.
Ah Foo Road

Bridge over the Cascade River

At 11.4 km Mt Paris Dam Rd crosses over the Cascade River. The road then meets the Mt Paris Dam turn-off to the left (at 13.1 km). Park your car close to the turn-off. The short 100m access road is a 4WD track. A short walk under the dam wall takes you to an entrance through the wall.

A man is standing in a large hole cut in the concrete wall of the Mt Paris dam, North East Tasmania
Holes cut in the dam wall
The Cascade River flows through the wall of the Mt paris dam. In this view the down-stream concrete butresses can be seen.
Concrete butresses downstream

History of Mt Paris Dam

Consulting engineers, Haskins and Davey of Sydney designed the Mt Paris dam for Mt Paris Tin Mines Ltd in 1935. Originally called, the Morning Star Dam, its construction was completed in the following year. During the same year (1936), the dam was also connected to the Mount Paris Mine by a water race 11 km long. By the end of 1936 the tin mine was in operation!

Building Mt Paris Dam during the Great Depression

Mt Paris dam has a re-enforced concrete slab and buttress wall. The wall has a length of 250m and a maximum height of 16m. So, the dam had a water storage of about 1300 megalitres covering almost 21 hectares (52 Acres).

But, what was most impressive, was that the wall was mainly built by hand!

The supervising mining engineer, John Proud, decided the slab and buttress design was best for the times and the remote location. During the depression years, when finances were limited and unemployment was high, the dam constuction was economic on concrete and employed many manual labourers.

Workmen loaded wheelbarrows with wet cement from a petrol-driven cement mixer. Then they pushed the cement along timber planks to fill the boxed sections of dam wall.

At the peak of construction 70 men were working on the dam. The Mt Paris Mining Company built huts to accommodate the single men, while the few married men camped with their families in a nearby picnic ground.

You can read more about the dam construction and view historical photos in a publication by L.A. Deacon.

Proud family and the crash of the Stinson aircraft

John Proud was a member of the well-known family of jewellers who were also major shareholders in the Mount Paris Mine. In 1937 John was a (miraculous) survivor of the Stinson plane crash in Southern Queensland. This was a truly heroic story of survival and rescue by Bernard O’Reilly. You can read John Proud’s statement to the inquest!

This story is of personal interest for me, because I have walked to the site of the wrecked plane, twice – both from O’Reilly’s and from Christmas Creek. I nearly became part of my own survival story on the last walk – when a ferocious cyclone hit the rainforest… I have never walked so fast or ever been so pleased to reach my car!

The dam changes ownership

A range of organisations oversaw the maintenance of the dam. The Mount Paris Tin Mining Company sold the dam to Briseis Consolidated NL, who maintained it until the close of operations in 1947. 

Following that it was owned by the state government and managed by the Ringarooma-Cascade Water Board. However, under an agreement with the Board the dam was actually maintained by Briseis Tin NL. But this agreement ceased with the closure of the mine in December 1961.

Mt Paris dam falls into disrepair

By the early 1970’s there was little water storage remaining in the dam. This was a result of a hole and large crack in near the base of the dam wall.

So who made the hole in the wall?

I have heard two anecdotal accounts of how the hole appeared Mt Paris Dam wall. Both accounts involve the (illegal) use of explosives.

First story – an OH&S issue

I have heard that a group of local residents, who were concerned about the safety of the Dam, decided to take matters into their own hands. Apparently, when it rained in winter, water backed up in the dam and flooded surrounding areas as well as the MtParis Dam road. So these concerned citizens blasted a crack in the wall to release water into the Cascade river.

Second story – fossickers on a mission

In this story, the concerned local citizens wanted a dry dam and a better flow of water in the Cascade River. Apparently, this provided better conditions for fossicking.

Tall tales or true?

Tasmania is a very connected place. I heard the second story, when my brother-in-law’s Apple Island Motorhome Club stayed on our property several years ago. A retired gentleman in the club told me that his very first task as a newly employed engineer with the Hydro Electric Commission (HEC) was to inspect a crack in the Mt Paris Dam wall. This was in the late 1960’s. This is when he heard the fossicking explanation for the vandalism. Anyway, his advice to the HEC was to cut the permanent holes, which are such a feature of dam, today.

The Apple Isle Motorhome Club visiting Tin Dragon Cottages, 2014

I heard the first story at a gathering for the 80th anniversary of the opening of the Mt Paris Dam.

So, perhaps there is a little truth in both recollections?

80th anniversary celebration – 2016

Despite Mt Paris dam being placed on the Tasmanian Heritage Register, a Tasmanian Government Department suggested it should be dismantled. This caused a community outcry–the result of which means that the dam remains standing as a monument to the important mining history of the area.

Needless to say, there is little to no funding to ensure any ongoing maintenance for the site. So in 2016 a community celebration of it’s 80 years was held as a fundraiser for the dam’s maintenance.

A site for the community

Where dark icy water once lapped the dam wall, native bush and weeds have taken over. The neatley carved holes are like great doorways showing glimpses of a picturesque view across to the hills, and beneath the dam wall the waters of the cascade river swirl over moss-covered rocks.

The site has become popular for picnicers, fossickers and photographers.

A young boy stans in the entrance of one of the My Paris dam wall holes - on the upstream side of the dam.
Our family has been visiting often over many years
A group pof people, some standing and some sitting on rocks below the Mt Paris dam wall.
People enjoying the dam
A photographer wearin a dark green rain jacket is squatting on a rock beside the Cascade River just below the Mt Paris dam wall. He is using a camera with a large lens on a tripod.
Mt Paris dam attracts photographers from all over Australia

As I mentioned above, our family has been visiting the Mt Paris dam site for many years – long before it became popular with tourists.

A nude woman, facing away from the camera, is submerged up to her waist in the icy water below a short waterfall - beneath the Mt Paris dam wall.
The icy water is refreshing!

Back, when the tourists were unaware of the beauty of the Mt Paris dam, it was possible to enjoy a sneaky skinny dip in the freezing cold water of the Cascade River! BTW, the tunnel in the backgound is the original 1936 dam diversion tunnel.

This image is taken from the inside of the Don mine in Tasmania  looking out to the regrowth rain forest

The Don Mine Tin Company operated from 1880 and the Duco Tin Mine from 1919. The rain forest has almost totally reclaimed the small workings now. But you will enjoy the short walk and the glow worms!

How to find the Don Mine in North East Tasmania

From Tin Dragon Trail Cottages turn right onto the Tasman Highway (A3). Continue along the Tasman Highway through Derby, Moorina to Weldborough (26 Km). Out of Welborough the Tasman Highway crosses the Weld River (3.1 km).

Then continue another 2.6km to the Little Plains Lookout and junction with Lottah Road. Turn left into Lottah Road. This gravel road is suitable for an average sedan car. Drive another 5.5 km, cross the Crystal Creek bridge and find a car park. Less than 100m from the bridge, the Don Mine walk is indicated by a yellow marker & small sign on a tree next to the road (LHS).

There is a yellow blaze in the trunk of a large tree next to the road indicating the Don mine walk in Tasmania.
Graham is standing next to signage describing the Don mine to Duco mine circuit walk, Tasmania.

On our most recent visit to the Don mine walk (Sept 2020), the sign on the tree had fallen off, but the blaze can still be seen.

Signage describing the walk has been painted on a wooden paling nailed to a tree at the beginning of the walk.
The Don Min to Duco Adit circuit walk

On the opposite side of the road to the  start of the Don mine circuit walk you can wander down an old road to an abandoned and rotting wooden bridge. Don’t attempt to cross it! However the scenery will reward you if you can shimmy down to Crystal Creek. You may need to wander a little upstream to find a more suitable place to access the creek, because the bank near the bridge is very steep!

A small hole in a rock face is set up with a plates and a cup on a shelf and an old kerosene lamp is hanging in front of the hole.
The miners’ crib?
The entrance to the Don mine is in a solid rock face.
Graham standing in the entrance to the Don mine
Graham is standing inside the Don mine.
Inside the Don mine
An old boiler is now covered in green ferns.
The old boiler

How to find the Duco Adit

The walk from the Don mine takes you past old mining relics including an abandoned boiler. To complete the walk you will need to cross the Crystal Creek. But during periods of high rain fall you might find the rock-hopping difficult. So you might like to access the Duco adit via a short walk from the Lottah Road!

A car parked on the side of a gravel road next to a large tree which has a small yellow blaze.
Yellow blaze on a tree
Inside a cave a photographer has set up with his tripod to photograph a large black cave spider.
Look for the cave spider (LHS)

As you approach Crystal Creek on Lottah Road, slow down to look for a large tree with a small yellow blaze. On the opposite side of the road you will find a short walk in to the Duco Adit.

Care for the wild life!

This small damp cave is remarkable for its cave-life. If you are lucky you should see Glow worms and Tasmanian cave spiders. It is important that you don’t allow more than one or two people into the cave together, so you don’t disturb the ecology!

Glow worms

Of course glow worms aren’t actually worms, but the larvae of a type of gnat. Look carefully to see their long sticky threads hanging down. There are very few accessible places to view these creatures. So we ask you to be very careful not to disturb them.

Tasmanian cave spiders

Tasmanian cave spiders are the last of an old Gondwanan lineage of spiders. They still retain the primitive pattern of four abdominal breathing organs, called book lungs–seen as four light patches on the underside of the abdomen. Neil Gaiman and the Bookend Trust filmed a fascinating documentary featuring these pre-historic creatures.

In 2018 we hosted Luke O’Brien, photographer. You can still see his photos of the Duco on his Blog. Can you see the spider in his photo, above?

If you are interested in Tasmanian tin-mining heritage you might also like to visit the old Anchor stampers next time you visit Tin Dragon Cottages.

The rusting Anchor stampers rise out of the regrowth bush in Tasmania

The Anchor mine and its stampers have had a checkered history from opening in 1880 to finally closing in 1996. We encourage you to visit this interesting site and to read about the mine’s history.

How to find the Anchor stampers in Tasmania

This is a 2.5 hour excursion. There is a 40 minute drive each way and a 30 minute walk. Then of course you should enjoy a picnic lunch or a meal at a local hotel!

From Tin Dragon Trail Cottages you turn right onto the Tasman Highway (A3). Then you drive up over the hill out of Branxholm, before continuing along the Tasman Highway through Derby, Moorina to Weldborough (26 Km). From Welborough driving on the A3 you will pass the Little Plains Lookout (6.8 km from Welborough). The Anchor Road turn-off is 17 km from Weldborough. Less than 1 km along the Anchor Rd is a turn-off to the right for Halls Falls. But you will continue another 4 km on Anchor Road, cross the Groom R bridge & look for the Anchor stampers signage. The Anchor Road is a well maintained gravel road suitable for the family sedan car.

Easy 30 min return walk to the Anchor stampers

Our Feroza is parked in the all-weather car park provided for the Anchor stampers walk in North East Tasmania
Our Feroza in the Anchor Stampers car park
The blue walks sign in the Anchor stampers car park.
An easy walk down to the stampers

The heritage stampers (1930)

Two sets of stampers are displayed on a wooden viewing platform
This image shows the stamper wheel detail.

The battery at this site consists of 2 sets of 10-head stamps, which were relocated from Tasmania’s west coast in the 1930’s. A Gardener diesel powered the stampers motor till the mine closure in 1950.

Brief history of the Anchor Tin Mine in Tasmania

Following the discovery of alluvial tin in the Groom River during 1880, Arthur Hodge and James Robinson worked the original Anchor leases on “tribute”. The tribute system involved a self-employed miner agreeing to share the profits of his labour with a mine manager in return for the use of the mine property.

The Anchor Mine Mining Co NL was floated on the Hobart stock exchange in September 1882. The Anchor Mining Company used the capital raised from the float to replace the alluvial mining with an open-cut lode mine. The company opened two faces into the steep hillside at the site. In addition they erected a crushing and concentrating plant and installed the famous water wheel. However the company soon closed and sold the mine only two years later.

Tasmania’s largest waterwheel drove the original Anchor stampers

The waterwheel (the largest in Tasmania) could power a 40-head stamper battery and was an estimated 20m across, 1.34m wide and 100 tonnes. Water to drive the wheel was diverted from many streams and water races. In fact ten tonnes of water was required for just one revolution of the wheel. However, an inadequate supply of water meant that only about 30 of the 40 stampers could be used.

Most lode tin mines had a crushing battery to reduce the ore to fine particles ready for further extraction treatment. In the 1880’s the Anchor Mine in Tasmania had an enormous crushing battery of 100 stamps.

This type of crushing machinery was called a gravity stamp, because the engine lifted a series of heavy iron rods then let them drop onto the ore in the mortar box. So gravity did the work of crushing the stone. When the stone particles were small enough they splashed out through a screen and went to a shaking table known as a Wilfley table. The Anchor stampers were not very efficient, but were popular in the Tasmanian bush because they were simple, strong and easy to maintain.

The Anchor mine sold then re-sold…

There were many further attempts to re-open the mine, with the final chapter in January 1989 when the New Zealand based Spectrum Resources re-opened the mine. But after only two years of operation and expenditure of around $7 million the Company closed the mine again.

Then in 1994 Mancala Pty Ltd acquired the mine. They produced tin till 1996.

Graham and I first saw the Anchor mine (and old stampers) in 1997–one year after Mancala turned off the plant. The power lines were still live at the mine site. The extraction plant looked like the switch had just been flicked off because there were rocks still on the conveyer belt and half-filled bags of tin sitting abandoned. Workers had even left their jackets behind.

Final close-down of the Anchor Mine

In 2007 after heavy rain a dam built for the mine collapsed and washed away a large section of the visitor walking track. The wash-out was spectacular and indicated the level of force behind the escaping water! (We suspect it may have been more than rain fall that caused the dam wall wash-out…).

Then after several years, Forestry Tasmania constructed a new walking track, car park and Anchor stampers viewing platform. The mining company removed all the plant equipment from the new mine site and blocked the entrances to the mines.

Detail showing a stamper head with manufacturers label.
Detail showing a stamper head with five stamps at the Anchor stampers heritage site in Tasmania.

See a working stamper in Beaconsfield

The Grub Shaft mine museum in Beaconsfield has a working display of an old water wheel and stamper battery, which was reconstructed from parts obtained in the Blue Tiers.

Off the beaten track in North East Tasmania

Please read our Blog pages to learn about other interesting places to visit in our region!

Old black and white photo of the Ringarooma River near what is now Tin Dragon Cottages.
Ringarooma River , Branxholm ~1900

Henrys story presented here is based on documented historical events. Henry Ah Ping and his family lived and worked near Branxholm. He invites you to read his story then walk in his footsteps, “If you put yourself in someone else’s position, your wisdom reveals”.

将(jiāng)心(xīn)比(bǐ)心(xīn),方(fāng)显(xiǎn)才(cái)智(zhì)

Leaving China for Australia (1877)

Harsh Times

This is my story: Henrys story.

I was born in the small coastal rural village of Ping Gang located in the Taishan county of Sze Yap area of Guangdong, China in 1859. My Chinese name is Mui Chuang Ping and my village is located a few hours walk from Zhapo Gang (Bay). I am the second son of Mui Ji Wei. My father, my brother, my mother and sister and I all work in the gardens of village land-owners. Our food mainly comes from the gardens. Sometimes my brother and I catch fish in the bay and we eat the dried fish. We live strictly according to our kinship obligations and do not have many dealings with other clansmen.

Old black and white portrait of a young Chinese man. This Chinese immigrant has become the face of Henrys story.
Chinese Immigrant

These are harsh times for poor families like ours. We are fearful of corrupt village officials who have much power over us. In my 18 years great floods and drought too have left us hungry and I have seen many die of fever disease. Some of our villagers have come back from the big ports where they have worked and have been sick with opium addiction. When I was a small child some of the men from our village left to fight with the Taipings against our corrupt imperial leaders. There is pressure by some that I should train with rebels to fight increasing oppression. My brother wishes to marry soon, but I am too poor to marry.

New Gold Mountain

Last year my cousin returned after many years mining the gold fields in Australia. He has £100 savings for his family! Along with other countrymen, he has been working on the goldfields but he says that it is getting too hard there now and many are leaving. This is because new arrivals must pay a large tax to the ship’s Master to gain entry. But he says that a New Gold Mountain has been found and the entry to this new land is free.

Our countrymen in Australia can arrange passage for men to work in the New Gold Mountain. My cousin tells me many stories. I am excited to go! So I become determined to make our family’s fortune. Then I will send money home. When I have saved £100 I could return a proud man and would be able to marry, build a family home and buy a small business. I would be able to help care for my parents. My cousin says some have made such a fortune in only a few years. I am young and skilled –I can write and I will work very hard!

SS Mangana brought Chinese miners to Tasmania. it was part of the Trail of the Tin Dragon.
SS Mangana 1880

Travel to Launceston

At 18 years-of-age, I leave the village for the New Gold Mountain with my cousin and four others with the same family name from other villages around. I carry all my belongings tied-up on a single bamboo pole. It is February 1877. In the morning we walk to the coast to where we can catch a ferry across the Bay to the Island (Hailing Dao). After walking across the Island the next day we arrive in Zhapo where we say good bye to my cousin.

We take a boat from Zhapo to Macao, and then a steam-ship to Hong Kong. That night we stay in the Hexing Hotel. We arrive at Sydney port in March, but are not permitted to leave the ship, because it would cost each passenger a £10 poll tax. After another two nights we change to another steamer-ship and sail to Melbourne. Here we stay at a countrymen’s lodgings (Lowe Kong Meng & Co) and meet up with another group of Chinese who had been working the gold fields near Ballarat and Bendigo. Most come from villages in my area (Taishan). Several days later we board the Mangana for Launceston. There are 12 of us. My cousins and I have been travelling for about 40 days when we finally arrive in Launceston.

Paying My Credit Ticket

That first night we stay at the business premises of Peters, Barnard & Co in Elizabeth St. At last, I am able to place an offering in the Joss House for the health of my family and our good fortune.

My life in Launceston

A pencil sketch of newly arrived Chinese male immigrants in 1874
New arrivals 1874

Tom Sing, an educated man who speaks English and works with Mr Peters, arranges for us to work in gardens owned by our countrymen for the next six months. We work without cash payment, only board and lodgings. These are the conditions of our Credit Ticket. Because we have borrowed our fares from our countrymen in Launceston and must repay our debt.

I have very little money but I need to spend most of it to buy a warm jacket, leather shoes, trousers and blanket. The cold nights are harsh and am pleased when the weather finally starts to warm a little.

Launceston Chinese community

I live quietly with my countrymen and have little contact with the Westerners. There is a small community of Chinese in Launceston – about 100. More than half come from Taishan county where my village is. We meet at the Elisabeth St Premises to play games of Mah Jong.—a game which I learnt only recently. Some play other games such as Fan Tan and lose their money unwisely.

Integrating with a new community

Although I have seen one or two Westerners at home I am still getting used to them. They are much taller and wear strange clothing. In the street they mostly avoid me, but often greet me politely with a smile, too. I am trying to learn some English words. While I am working I practice and memorise the words. Mr Tom Sing is highly respected by his business associates and is very successful. I will try to be successful, too – I will learn to speak English. It is the custom here for Chinese to take on a new ‘English’ name. I have chosen to be called Henry. Some Western officials have started calling me Mr Henry Ah Ping and this becomes my new English name. I write home that I am well and will send some money home, soon.

We are tributors

As part of our debt we must also work a two-year contract period for a tin mine owner in an area North East of Launceston. We will work as tributors for about 5 shillings per day (40/- to 45/- per cwt tin). My countrymen who have been working here tell me this payment is much less than the earnings of European workers who would expect to get around 8 shillings per day.

Recently there has been a sudden drop in the price of tin and the mine owner is pleased to have us work for him. I am disappointed.

Joss House at Garibaldi
(left to right: Ah Hep, Yee Gee, Sharkey)

There are many stories. I have heard that the Western tin miners resent the Chinese and there has been some trouble. In Melbourne and Sydney Chinese are restricted from entry and Chinese miners have been attacked and robbed. But my cousin says that if I work hard I will make money here. Then I can return home.

Travel to Branxholm

In September we take the steamer Avon from Launceston down the Tamar River to Bridport. One of our countrymen I have seen on many occasions at the Elizabeth St Premises accompanies our group. The steamer lets us off at a newly built jetty.

SS Minx was a coastal steamer operating around Launceston from 1889.
SS Minx operated in the North East till sinking near the mouth of the Ringarooma River in 1893
The Forester inn and bridge across the Forester River (C 1890)
The Forester inn and bridge across the Forester River (C 1890)

The countryman accompanying us is met by a Western man. His name is Mr Samuel Hawkes and he will take us to the mines where we are to be employed. After our countryman leaves we have some difficulty understanding what we are to do – we only have a few English words between us. We make camp for the night not far from the jetty. It is very cold out in the open.

Samuel Hawkes (1845 to 1937)
Samuel Hawkes – the politician

The next day we set out on foot. Mr Hawkes is riding and there are several pack horses carrying supplies. Before nightfall we set up camp outside another small settlement, called Scottsdale. We keep to ourselves, but some children come to say hello.

A view out to Scottsdale in Tasmania taken during the Tin Mining era around 1890.
Scottsdale (C 1890)

Why does the man carry a timber plank?

On the following day the going is harder.

The track is in very bad condition with many deep ruts and holes filled with deep sticky mud. Today it is sunny and warm, but this track must be impassable when it is raining. Wherever possible we walk alongside the track through the bush rather than on the track. We are passed by a heavily laden wagon being dragged by a bullock team. The team was struggling along the uneven track but is making a reasonable pace. I guess they will make it to Branxholm by afternoon.

At one point a man leading a pack horse passes us from the other direction. He calls out cheerfully to ‘Sammy’. He appears to be carrying a long timber plank. We think this is a strange custom. (I learn later that the man carries the plank to save himself if he should fall into a very deep mud hole!)

The camp at Tulendeena

The Camp Hotel at Tuldeena was on the trail of the tin dragon.
The Camp Hotel at Tulendeena (C 1890)

Our group reaches The Camp at Tulendeena situated at the base of a steep windy stretch called the Billy Cock. This is a well-used camp site and there appears to be several small teams of pack horses and another wagon here for the night. There is a newly built hotel which looks bright and warm inside.

However, we stay outside and just on dark as we are settling into our camp a small group Western men come out of the hotel yelling at us – most likely obscenities but I don’t recognise any of the words. A few men pick up stones and throw them in our direction. Mr Hawkes intervenes and the men return inside, with raised voices continuing well into the night. I learn later, that Mr Hawkes who owns the claims which we will work is also the manager of the largest tin mine and is the largest employer in the area. Apparently the men thought it best not to put Mr Hawkes off-side.

The bridge incident

The red and gold Branxholm Bridge has Chinese calligraphy inspired icons to commemorate the towns Chinese history.
The newer Branxholm Bridge commemorates the town’s Chinese history

Next morning we set out in a swirling dense cold fog. After a hard trudge uphill over muddy slippery tracks we come out of the fog onto the crest of a hill overlooking a densely forested plain. Distant mountains are blanketed in cloud. It is a fine spring day. After several hours of easier walking we approach the settlement of Branxholm.

Branxholm at this time has about five small cottages located in the valley across from the Ringarooma River.

Ringarooma Bridge in pre-federation Branxholm late 1800's.
Ringarooma Bridge in pre-federation Branxholm – Retreat Hotel on the right

A small crowd of noisy men is forming at the bridge getting noisier and louder as we approach. Some have sticks and others have mining picks. After the stone throwing of the previous night I feel afraid! We refuse to go any further and start to walk back to the top of the hill and sit down.

Mr Hawkes is very angry. He confronts the crowd. Is that a pistol in his raised hand? Nearly all the noisy mob quickly walk off into the nearby Retreat Hotel. One man remains but after some words with Mr Hawkes he too walks away. A young Chinese man brings us some preserved fruits and we share some tea. After some time Mr Hawkes returns.

We return to Scottsdale where we stay for nearly one week. Here our camp is on the north east side of the town near a garden owned by a Chinese man. Garden work is exchanged for food.

Settling in to Ruby Flat

After the upheaval of the previous week, two members of the Territorial Police Force and another man who works with Mr Hawkes accompany us back to Branxholm. This time there is no trouble and the Branxholm settlement is quiet. After crossing the bridge on the Ringarooma River we continue about one mile along a small track to Ruby Flat. Along the way there are small clearings in the bush, some canvas tents and a few timber huts – with some more being built.

Branxholm in 1859 showing the road leading in from Scottsdale and the bridge over the Ringarooma River.
Branxholm 1859

At the cottage owned by Mr Hawkes there is a single room filled to over-flowing with mining supplies, including building materials. We can purchase supplies to make our camp including blankets and canvas and a few cooking utensils, some tinned foods, rice, teas and flour. Afterwards Mr Hawkes issues us with some basic mining tools and two of our countrymen who are very experienced with mining take charge. I spend all my money and go further into debt. So it will be hard to get ahead.

Life becomes a routine of hard work

Over the next two years my life consists of a routine of hard work. It takes me about six months before I finally save a little money. The Chinese men here are close-knit and we look after each other. We share meals and some relaxation by playing Mah Jong. After the tin prices improve and we are extracting larger amount of tin ore it is easy for me to send a small amount of money home — £3 by the end of my first year! One of our countrymen, who knows Tom Sing can arrange for letters and money to be sent to our families in China.

Black and white photo of the Arba tin mine in Branxholm, early 1900s
The Arba Tin Mine in Branxholm

Working for Ah Moy

In 1879 the price of tin drops badly and when news reaches Branxholm of a gold strike in the mountains to the West (Mt Arthur) many European claim owners are in a hurry to leave. Some of my countrymen are able to buy the unwanted claims for little cost. I am lucky, because I am able to work as a tributor for my recently arrived countryman, William Ah Hong Moy. After a few years of good tin prices William Ah Moy opens a store on Ruby Flat and employs more countrymen in his mines. As well as mining for tin ore I sometimes help out in the store. William Ah Moy is a good man to work for and I am able to send money home regularly. The store is very busy now that Mr Sam Hawkes has moved away to Scottsdale and his store has closed.

Ah Moy family wearing traditional dress for studio photo, late 1800s.
Ah Moy family
Ah Moy family in 2008 standing outside ah Moy cottage at Tin Dragon Cottages. The Ah Moy family were important in Henrys story.
Ah Moy family and friends at Tin Dragon Cottages 2008

Starting My Own Business

There are a few hundred miners—mostly Chinese—in the area. I see that there are opportunities for me to become a businessman, too. I start a small garden on ruby Flat road and sell my vegetables, eggs and chickens through the Ah Moy store. William Ah Moy leases his land from Tom Sing and sublets the garden to me. Ah Moy also travels to Garibaldi and Weldborough with a team of horses to supply Chinese communities with groceries and to buy pigs. He is a very successful businessman. He decides to make this new land his home and gains the citizenship of his new country only five years after his arrival, in 1883. In 1888 my employer and friend brings his wife, Lee Chee, out from China.

There is no mining without water

Water running from a water race through a sluice box with a Chinese miner standing adjacent.
Sluice near Branxholm (early 1900s)

Some claims near where I live, which look promising, have not been worked. In August 1889 I purchase two of these 20 Acre claims (98/87M, 1690M). There is no mining without water. So I come to an arrangement to access water from a race above my claims (41693W) which is owned by Mr Edward Gaunt. This race takes its water from Pearces’ Cascade Creek (now called Guiding Star). I become an employer! I employ three men on claim 98/87M and advertise the other claim for tribute. Now I am really busy. One of my employees also helps out with the garden and a team of experienced Chinese tributors take on claim 1690M (You can walk through this old lease at Tin Dragon Cottages)

In the following year I purchase a water right (218W) in partnership with Foon Hock to extract water from Pearces’ Cascade Creek and I employ a team of men for six months to dig a small water race to service Foon Hock’s mining claim. In turn Foon Hock pays me for the use of this water. Over the next three years of working my claims tin prices in London are not high but do remain steady. The heavy bags of tin ore are sold to William Ah Moy, who has the ore transported on the rail from Scottsdale to Launceston for processing and then onto London. He offers a fair price and over the three years I make a reasonable profit. With my earnings from the water race and market garden I am able to save £120 over three years.

Young Chinese gentleman in a suit and tie (C 1920's is Chung Fon Hock, son of Foon Hock.
Chung Fon Hock
Born in Ringarooma in 1895

Tragedy on Ruby Flat

In 1893 there is an awful event. Foon Hock and several of his tributors are killed while drying gelignite near a fire. We hold a funeral procession in their honour and place Loc Suey and roasted pig at the grave.

Traditional Chinese funeral procession C 1890's.
Funeral procession

It’s a lonely life

I hear that my brother has married and their first son has been born! Although I am working hard and enjoying the company of my countrymen here, I feel very lonely away from my family. Our Chinese community here has grown and I enjoy laughing with the children. In 1889 a daughter, Ah Tue, is born to my friend Ah Moy. I too would like to have a wife and family. Finally I make the decision to follow my friend’s example—to make this country my home. I will save enough money to return to China for a wife. Citizenship will grant me a re-entry so I can return with my wife easily and without the need to pay the £10 poll tax. So I apply to become a Tasmanian citizen. Tasmania now imposes restrictions on the number of Chinese immigrants which could delay or prevent my return otherwise.

My plans do not eventuate. I hear that other countrymen have great difficulty returning from China even with naturalisation and re-entry visas. The time passes quickly while I am so busy. By 1891 there 12 Chinese clan stores operating in our region of North East Tasmania.

Tasmania is My Home

My English has improved greatly because I am working and mixing with local western resident everyday. I become a close friend of the Fletcher family in Ringarooma. However, my great joy is my friendship with the widow, Louisa Jane Seelin (nee Fletcher). Tuesday second of June 1891 is the happiest day of my life, because this is the day I marry Louisa! Then in August (27th August 1891) our daughter, Mary Louisa is born.

Family life – Henrys story of great joy and sadness

The following year becomes one of great sadness. After gaining my Tasmanian citizenship in 1892, Louisa becomes gravely ill. Then my beautiful Louisa dies march 3rd 1892. She was 33 years old. So now it is difficult to manage on my own with a young daughter. Friends say I should remarry.

A plain headstone in the Moorina Cemetery, commemorates Louisa Ping wife of Henry Ping.
Louisa’s grave, Moorina

In 1893 I am blessed when through my commerce I meet Mary Hughes. Mary travels with some family members to Welborough at the time when the famous Chinese Opera company is performing there. This event was a great celebration enjoyed by both the Chinese and European communities. I spend the time in the company of the Hughes family and Mary consents to become my wife. We have a Christian wedding early in the following year. I am now 35 years old.

A simple timber cottage in a newly cleared site. In the foreground is a massive tree stump with a man sitting on it. Photo taken around 1900
Settlers Cottage

We live modestly. With some help from my friend, we build a small timber house just outside Branxholm close to the dwellings of my countrymen. This is a happy time. Ah Moy is a good business partner. With help from Mary and Ah Sue we extend our market garden. I am still sending small amounts of money home to my family in China. One day I will return – perhaps when my family have grown and I am very old. Although sad that I do not have a son, I enjoy (and spoil!) my four daughters, including twins, who are born over the first five years of our marriage. My oldest daughter, Mary Louisa marries a Tasmanian man, George Salter, in 1909.

We continue to live in the North East—buying more property at Moorina and Beauty Point and moving to Ringarooma just before the Great War.

My Final Years

By 1930 my daughters have married and moved away. Mary and I moved to Launceston after the War. Here I ran my business as a mining agent. I also represented my Chinese community when they needed to deal with the European bureaucracy. For example, I was very pleased to assist Charlie Ah Noon’s brother when he wished to exhume Charley’s body to return his body to China.

Henry dies in 1938, aged 79 years. At this time he and Mary were living in a cottage in Hobart. This was Henrys story.

One of Henry and Mary’s great-grand daughters lives in Launceston (2012). Descendants of Louisa’s first marriage (Seelin) still live in Northern Tasmania.

(Copyright CK Booth 2020)

Woman and man standing on a wooden platform looking into an abandoned alluvial tin mine - now covered in trees and ferns.
The old mine has remained undisturbed for 100 years

With funding from the Tasmanian Tourism Promotion Plan in 2008 Christine and Graham designed a trail to celebrate the Chinese tin mining heritage on their property. So this blog describes how Henry’s story was brought back to life.

Christine and Graham purchased their property in Branxholm in 2001. They chose this property because they wished to establish a tourism accommodation business. They saw the 36 acre property on the Ringarooma River bounded by regenerated bush as a perfect location for a tourism business.

Tin Dragon Cottages sits above the Ringarooma River in North East Tasmania
Ringarooma River
Looking out over the house and Tin Dragon cottages towards the river
Tin Dragon Cottages

Discovery of Heritage Tin Mines

However, in 2001 the new owners were unaware of the heritage value of their property. When Christine and Graham explored the bush they found what looked like historic mine sites. In order to learn more, Graham contacted Greg Dickens of Mineral Resources Tasmania. Greg supplied Graham with copies of old maps detailing the historic mine leases. In addition to the local Anglican priest who owned the Martial Mary lease on the river flats, Chinese immigrants owned most of the other leases. Leases owned by Ah Ping, Ah Moy, Fon Hock and Ah Back were on Graham and Christine’s property.

Giant man ferns are growing on the floro of the heritage Ah Ping alluvial mine site.
Giant man ferns
A young couple sit on a sandstone bench in the centre of the heritage Ah Ping mine.
Sassafras shaded grotto

The Ah Ping alluvial mine, undisturbed for nearly 100 years, was now re-vegetated with man ferns, Myrtle and Sassafras trees. With some remaining tall eucalypts the regrowth had formed a natural grotto. Fern and moss covered rock heaps and a tail race flowing with water in the wetter months were evidence of the miners’ hard work with pick and shovel.

Because they fell in love with the beauty of the heritage mine site, Christine and Graham set about trying to learn of the Chinese miners who had lived and worked in Branxholm and Tasmania. They also felt that the site and the history should be made available to the community.

Awarded a Tourism Grant

In 2008 Tin Dragon Cottages won a Tasmanian Tourism Promotion Plan grant to develop a walk through the alluvial mine site and to research some of the history. After searching the Tasmania Archives, Christine wrote a brief history of Henry Ah Ping and the Chinese miners of Branxholm. Meanwhile Graham constructed an easy 15 minute circuit walk through the alluvial mine site.

Mining Heritage Interpreted

The grant money also enabled Christine to display the history and old photos on a series of posters. Although these posters are not currently on display, Christine and Graham can make the posters available upon request.

A further aspect of the project was the commissioning of Folko Kooper (Mangalore Tasmania) to create steel silhouettes depicting the hard working Chinese miners. These silhouettes slip quietly into the landscape as gifts for the observant walker in the mine. Then at the centre of the mine, there is a meditation area with seating made from sandstone (sourced from mainland China). A nearby steel bollard has the inscription in Cantonese, “when you put yourself in another’s position, your wisdom reveals”. 将(jiāng)心(xīn)比(bǐ)心(xīn),方(fāng)显(xiǎn)才(cái)智(zhì)

A man and woman are standing in front of a steel bollard which has a Cantonese inscription on it.
Your wisdom reveals
A steel silhouette is in the foreground and in the background are three people looking up at the trees.
Silent witness

Officially Opened by Tourism Minister 2009

The Minister for Tourism, Michelle O’Byrne, opened the walk in 2009. Graham and Christine were privileged to have Mr Norman Moy (grandson of William Ah Moy) and 6 members of his extended family present for the opening. Norman spoke with great passion about his family ties to Branxholm.

Chinese Descendents

In addition to the Moy family, other Chinese descendants have visited Tin Dragon Cottages too. These people have included descendants of Ah Ping and Henry’s wife Louisa Seelin, Maa Mon Chin (Weldborough), Fon Hock (Chung), Teuon, Chin Kit and Chintock. So for Christine and Graham this has been a greatly rewarding experience and they continue to learn more about the local history.

Have you ever wanted to look at Tasmania differently? Would you like to see spectacular scenery and learn about Tasmania’s past while avoiding well-known tourist destinations? But you don’t want to slog it out on foot carrying a heavy backpack? Then you would enjoy a family-friendly tour of Tasmania’s Hydro Electric heritage.

Christine standing on the Lake Margaret dam wall in west Tasmania
Lake Margaret Dam wall

Family-friendly Tasmanian Hydro Tour

Art Deco entrance to the Tarraleah Power Station in Tasmania
Tarraleah Power Station

Mid-July 2014: Graham, James, Rusty (our dog) and me (Christine) spent five days exploring the hydro electric heritage in highlands of Tasmania. We stayed overnight in Queenstown (two nights) and Derwent Bridge (two nights). We covered 1003 kms from Branxholm via Deloraine and Moina to Queenstown and from Queenstown to Derwent Bridge. Then we drove home via Bronte Park and the Highland Lakes Highway.

This was not just a tour of Tassie’s amazing hydro electric past, but also of the Cashion family heritage.

Day One Hydro Electric Heritage Tour: East to West Drive

Sunday morning we were going to get away early. You know this story. After packing clothes (easy bit), organizing food, last-minute housework (ha! I wish) we fee the alpacas and checked the chooks. The we socialised with our cottage guests, packed the car and locked the house—don’t forget the windows. Finally we left at the deadly early hour of 11:30 (am, in case you were wondering). I think I fell asleep, while Graham was driving.

A Perfect Winter’s Day for Driving

It was a beautiful sunny winter’s day. when we stopped for lunch at Chudleigh. The Honey Farm was doing a roaring trade and there appeared to be a function happening in the local hall. Rusty made friends with a small fluffy white, friendly but vocal, dog, and drank from a fountain. Our home-prepared picnic was great ham, cheese, chutney sangas washed down with a hot cuppa. Oh yes, I had done the mother thing the day before, cooking bread, bolognaise sauce, pumpkin soup, chocolate peppermint slices and gingerbread biscuits.

We drove through Mole Creek. I remember an enjoyable stay at a guest house here when James was a baby. We drove down narrow roads lined with shrubs—very English—with sheep grazing in green pastures. Who are the lucky people who get to live in Tasmania? Oh! That’s right I live here. (I asked myself this question on my first visit to Tasmania over 20 years ago.)

The scenery changed from lush temperate rainforest to alpine scrub as we drove to Moina and across the Middlesex plains. Snow drifts had settled on the plains. There was a line of 4WDs exiting the Cradle mountain turnoff, most heading back to Launceston, I guess. It must have been a busy weekend at Cradle Mountain. We drove on to Queenstown taking the ex-hydro road past Lake Plimsoll rather than the A10 highway through to Rosebery.

Accommodation in Queenstown

Interior of Greengates cottage showing the lounge, and dining area
Greengates Cottage, Railway Reserve Queenstown

We arrived just in time to collect our accommodation key from the owner (Mrs Barbra Gumley) at the newsagency. Greengates on Central, not easy to find on the internet, but is really comfortable and good value accommodation. This was the second time we had stayed there (2014). It has four units each with two bedrooms, lounge, kitchen/dining and bathroom. You can’t easily cook a meal in the kitchen, but it is better than trying to fill up the kettle in a motel bathroom!

It was cold and raining on this first night, but Rusty preferred to camp under a tree, rather than curl up on a blanket on the front verandah. The owner told us that the cottages were for sale, as well as their other businesses (supermarket and newsagency). The quiet main street was bristling with For Sale signs and closed or quiet businesses. In 2014 Queenstown was suffering the loss of the Mt Lyell mine.

Eating in Queenstown

There was not much open on a Sunday evening. We bought lamb souvlaki from a local greasy spoon café. It was not the best choice, but it was easy. The following night it was a toss-up between the Maloneys and the Empire, so we dined at the Empire Hotel. I love the old hotel—it has a grand stair case and glorious history—a prime minister (which one?) and Nellie Melba dined there! The restaurant had hardly changed since we were there four years ago (2010). It was dark, cozy, quiet and with friendly service. The hotel priced the excellent chicken korma, succulent (large!) beef steak and chicken schnitzel at usual pub prices ($16 to $23 per plate). BTW there are three IGA supermarkets in Queenstown. We were able to buy everything we needed for our breakfasts and lunches at the IGA in the main Street.

Second Day Hydro Electric Heritage Tour: Lake Margaret

Aren’t Tasmanian connections great? Paul Coull, the engineer who signed the final certificate for our micro-hydro generator at Tin Dragon Trail Cottages, also installed the new turbine at lower Lake Margaret. So we scored a personal introduction to a Hydro maintenance engineer who was happy to show us around the Lake Margaret power station. We learnt much from our personal guide who shared his valuable time and incites with us.

BTW you can catch Paul at our Renewable Energy Field day and work shop in September this year (2019).

Heritage-listed Power Station

You can read more about the history of the Lake Margaret in the local hall and book a tour to view the power station with RoamWild Tasmania.

The Lake Margaret Power Station is the third oldest hydro-electric power plant in Tasmania. It was constructed by the Mount Lyell Mining and Railway Company between 1911 and 1914. The short lived Duck Reach station near Launceston and the Moorina station were earlier constructions. The mighty little Moorina power station—near us at Branxholm— was continuously operated for 100 years!

An old pipeline stave made of King Billy pine is on display near the lake Margaret Power Station in Tasmania

The awesome Lake Margaret timber pipes have been constructed three times. The original pipes were made from Canadian Oregon pine but were replaced with King Billy pine in 1938. The wood stave pipeline displayed here became unserviceable in 2006. After a major reconstruction, this time using Alaskan yellow cedar, the wooden stave pipeline and power station were recommissioned in 2009.

The Walk to the Lake Margaret Dam

The Lake Margaret dam face is high up on Mount Sedgwick. We drove 330m above the power station on a short very rocky steep track to the top of the penstock.

View from the top of the penstocks at the Lake Margaret Power Station in Tasmania

This is the view from the top of the steel penstock pipeline.The power station and abandoned village are in the middle-ground.

After an exciting drive up to the penstocks, we walked to the dam face. This was a gently sloping walk along 2.2km of duckboarding. There were awesome views out over a deep valley to the highlands. Along the way there were also alluring glimpses of Basin Lake appearing suspended in the mist. Of course all the time there were the amazing timber staves snaking close to the mountain face.

Graham and James walking along the boardwalk to Lake Margaret Dam

Graham and James didn’t wait for me. I dragged the chain taking photos then doing a crazy fast walk to catch up—too slippery to run!

Wooden stave pipe high above the valley and in the background the decommissioned pipe made out of King Billy pipe.

Foreground: The new wood stave pipe is constructed from yellow cedar. Background: The old staves were constructed with native King Billy pine.

For just a moment the mists swirled away to reveal lake Margaret beyond the dam wall

A solitary Kin Billy pine growing just below the old dam face at Lake Margaret.

A solitary King Billy pine tree was growing just in front of the old Lake Margaret dam face.

A red-painted former maintenance shed is next to the reconditioned wooden stave pipeline at Lake Margaret.

A long-abandoned maintenance shed sits just below the dam wall.

James and Graham walking along the boardwalk adjacent a long section of wood stave pipeline

The wood stave pipeline snakes close to the cliff high above the valley.

Water spouts rise above the wood stave pipeline where leaks have developed.

The newer wood stave pipeline needs on-going maintenance to repair leaks.

Lake Margaret Power Station & Abandoned Village

After our walk, a small verandah in front of the public toilets became our site for a welcome picnic lunch and hot cuppa. Rusty had a brief sniff of the cool air and a drink, then jumped back into our car. We then headed over to the Power Station to view the powerful turbines in action. The Lake Margaret power station is still putting power into the Tasmanian grid. We also read about the station’s history in a small visitor’s room. Now (2019) you can view an expanded history display in the village hall.

From the Lake Margaret Power Station it is a short walk across the Yolande river to the old hydro village. Time stood still here in the mid-1960’s when the village was abandoned. The houses had been prefabricated and moved into position in 1914.

Below the bridge there is a weir, which directs water into the pipes that feed the lower Lake Margaret mini hydro power station.

Three large turbines generating ower inside the lake Margaret Power Station
lake Margaret Power Station
Graham standing on top of the weir below the lake Margaret Power Station
Lake Margaret weir

We imagined the families who had come and gone over the years as we explored the silent street of the old hydro village at lake Margaret.

Three circa 1900 wooden workers cottage in the abandoned hydro village at lake Margaret in Tasmanias
Silent village street

Lower Lake Margaret Mini Hydro Power Station

After exploring the abandoned village we drove back towards Queenstown. We stopped at the turn-off to the lower Lake Margaret power scheme, but the gate was locked. So off we walked, leaving James and Rusty in the car. We had to see our engineer’s ‘baby’. It’s was an enjoyable walk—down, down, down…oh yes…then back up, up, up—about 7kms in total. Of course, the power station was locked, too.

Lower Lake Margaret minihydro power station with the stell penstocks in the foreground.
The lower Lake Margaret mini hydro power station

That night we all slept well, after another Empire pub meal.

Third day Hydro Electric Heritage Tour : Zeehan & Cashion Family History

We decided to pack several attractions in between Zeehan and Derwent Bridge because we weren’t due to check-in to our next accommodation till 3:00pm. So after farewelling the West Coast Wilderness heritage train in front of our Queenstown accommodation we back-tracked to Zeehan. This town was named after the Dutch explorer Abel Janzoon Tasman’s ship, the Zeehaen. I suspect this is a town often left off tourist itineraries.

This is the steam train leaving its station in Queenstown in Tasmania
West Coast Wilderness Railway

Zeehan

We were cold so we stopped at the only open café, The Pit Shop, for a coffee. The friendly young girl serving in the café spoke with a pronounced Tasmanian drawl. Although I have lived in Tasmania for more than 20 years, I am still fascinated by the Tassie accent. James was cold and hungry so he ordered a hot dog. This was a saveloy in a white bread roll with nothing else added. The coffees needed to be hotter and stronger. Almost $20 for this small meal was not good value for money.

Tasmania’s West Coast Mining History

We were totally blown away by the West Coast heritage Centre in Zeehan’s main street! You need a whole day to explore all there is to see and read in this remarkable museum. Although rushed, we still felt it was worth every cent of our $36 family ticket. We learnt about the development of the area including the Zeehan School of Mines and Metallurgy. We also walked though a mining tunnel, viewed beautifully restored steam trains, black smith and wheelwright shops and a comprehensive mineral collection. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time to visit the old Gaiety theatre or Freemasons temple. The centre appears to be open most days of the year. I can’t imagine you would ever need to fight your way through a crowd of visitors in this sprawling complex.

The Spray Tunnel

We drove down Fowler St at the northern end of the town, past the golf course and left onto a narrow gravel road in search of the Spray Tunnel. Because the road was so narrow, a vehicle had to back up to allow us to pass. The couple were loading a tray-back vehicle with firewood, so we had to wait for about 15 minutes.

At the end of this short road there was a car park and picnic table. Also there were interpretation signs and paved walking tracks. While we ate our picnic lunch I was noticed the wheelies etched into the lawn and the bullet holes blasted in a nearby cement wall. I guess the wall was part of the old mine structure. Then I remembered the friendly girl at the café warning us to be careful near the Spray Mine. Apparently the trail bike riders who practiced their driving and graffiti skills at the site had a bad reputation!

James standing in the mouth of the dark Spray Tunnel.

The Spray tunnel is an unusual keyhole shape, which is said to be the result of the top part of the tunnel having been enlarged to allow passage of steam boilers that were brought through the tunnel to the mine.

In 1901 the British Zeehan Silver Mining Company extended the Argent Tram line. This continued up the side of Summit Hill and passed through a tunnel to connect to the Spray Mine. A small loco christened “Spray” was used to work the line until the mine closed.

Driving the A10 to Derwent Bridge

Driving back through Queenstown we stopped above the town to take a photo.

Looking down over Queenstown from the highway to Derwent Bridge shows a stark landscape with little vegetation.

The stark hills surrounding the town are mesmerizing in their sinister beauty and a reminder of the historic disregard for the environment.

Looking down into a deep open-cut mine now filled with blue-green coloured water.

When leaving Queenstown you can take a short side-trip to the Iron Blow.

The A10 highway to Derwent Bridge soon leaves the mining past behind to meander through spectacular world heritage beauty.

Nelsons Falls

We stopped briefly at the Nelson Falls car park. Rather like visiting a memorial, we viewed the black & white photo of the Cashion family camped by the Lyell Highway at Mt Arrowsmith. Graham’s grandfather worked on the construction of the Lyell Highway in the 1930’s. We can’t drive past here without this brief stop.

Graham pointing to a photo on the information board at the entrance to the Nelsons Falls short walk
Graham
A black and white photo of a Graham's grandparent's family camping on the Lyell Highway circa 1930.
Graham’s dad – 2nd from right
Cascading water of Nelsons Falls surrounded by thick green temperate forest.
Nelson Falls
Nelson River below Nelson Falls

Derwent Bridge

We reached our accommodation at Derwent Bridge just before 5:00pm. That night we ate the spaghetti and bolognaise sauce I had prepared the previous Saturday, with the salad I had collected from our garden. Graham and James took Rusty for a long walk beside the highway and later we relaxed in front of a DVD, ‘The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel’. James and I really enjoyed this quietly romantic comedy. But Graham voted with his feet and went to bed early. Rusty slept well in out in the car.

Fourth Day Hydro Electric Heritage Tour : Visiting Graham’s Power Schemes

Graham had worked on turbines at Tarraleah and Tungatinah as a machinist-fitter. During this time he lived in the Tarraleah village. So we left our accommodation mid-morning to drive along the A10 to the Tarraleah power station.

19602 photo of Graham with other employees of Hydro Tasmania. They are wearing hard hats..

Graham is fourth from the left. As a young bloke Graham worked with the Hydro, becoming ‘apprentice of the year’ in 1967.

Graham photographed in mid 1960's as he was coming out of the inspection hole of a large hydro power turbine.

This is a Graham emerging from the inspection hole of the number 5 turbine at Tarraleah Power Station (1969)

Tarraleah and Tungatinah Hydro Power Stations

We found the Tungatinah power station was locked. However the neighbouring Tarraleah power station was open. So we ignored the signs suggesting that unauthorized personnel were disallowed entry and parked in the visitor’s area.

Inside the Power Station we viewed the working turbines through a glass visitor’s area. The number five turbine was stripped down and an engineer was looking earnest while inspecting printed diagrams. Graham had actually worked on the same turbine nearly forty years ago.

Hydro electic heritage is on display in this entrance lobby to the Tarraleah power station.

I love the Art Deco style of these old buildings

A hydro turbine undergoing maintenance was stripped of its outer cover.

Hydro turbine number five (LHS)

Once outside again, we looked up at the steel penstock pipes towards the Tarraleah village. Many years ago Graham had lost a bet that he could walk or climb to the top faster than the small worker’s bus could deliver workers to the village.

As we returned to the car Graham pointed out remnant paintwork on the transmission towers. During the war an army of workers with paint and brushes in hand covered the steel transmission towers in camouflage colours to prevent potential airborne attack. I wonder how they might have hidden the stark tree-less corridors along the path of the transmission lines.

Graham’s dad had been deployed to guard the Shannon Power Station and Miena dam during the early war years.

James is standing next to a large pelton wheel outside the power station. The steel penstock pipes are in the background.

James inspected a Pelton wheel at the base of the penstocks outside the Taraleah Power Station.

Looking directly down the steel penstocks from the top of Tarraleah. A key highlight of a Hydro Electric Heritage Tour.

Looking back at the power station from Tarraleah village

From the power station, we drove the short distance up to the Tarraleah village. Now known as the Tarraleah Estate the old village offers a range of accommodation from budget to luxury. We found this village with its wide streets and neat lawns was deserted (winter 2014). The lodge and restaurant also appeared to be closed.

Clark Dam and Butlers Gorge Hydro Power Station

Returning from Tarraleah to the A10 highway, we turned right onto the C603. Our journey followed the fast-flowing canal past the Mossy Marsh Pond, then up to the Clark Dam and the Butlers Gorge Power Station. The canal delivers water from Lake King William into the penstocks above the Tarraleah Power Station.

We mused about how much fun it would be to ride down the fast flowing canal stream. But of course, being sucked into the pipe at the end of the canal would be show-stopper! Perhaps a net strategically placed…but the low foot bridges and struts across the cement flumes would put your head in serious danger of disconnection.

Out at Butler’s Gorge the wind was bitterly cold, so we didn’t linger. Graham and James stayed in the car while I dashed out to take a few photos.

There are stories describing migrant dam workers being in tears as they battled the cold harsh climate. The hardship faced by these workers is depicted in Richard Flanagan’s novel, The sound of one hand clapping.

On the return drive we looked for evidence of the former workers’ camps. But all we found were collections of coloured tags on wires pinned into the ground. I had no idea what the significance of these were.

Clark dam wall at Butlers Gorge in Tasmania. The large expanse of water was whipped up by the wind.

The water in the Clark dam was dark blue and choppy.

Too Cold for a Picnic

There was a picnic table near the Nive River, but it was too cold and wet to stay. Instead, we chose to return to our accommodation taking the unsealed C602 past Mossy Marsh Pond and Laughing Jack Lagoon. At one point a contractor was busy trimming the overhanging bush, and at another a fully laden log truck rumbled past. This was clearly a logging road.

Lake St Clair National Park

After our lunch break, we drove to Lake St Clair for a quick look around. It was windy and starting to rain, so we didn’t stay. On the way out of the park we took a detour to view Pumphouse Point eco tourism development. Wow! This is another unique, but exclusive, tourist experience for Tasmania.

Pumphouse Point

The Wall in the Wilderness was our next stop. This is the gallery where Greg Duncan is creating a sculpture telling the history of the harsh Central Highlands. The stories include both indigenous and European activities. One section depicts the Hydro workers. The cavernous timber building was warm and inviting,with a roaring fire at one end. The overall experience was well worth the admission price.

Eating in Derwent Bridge

After another long, satisfying day, we dined at the Derwent Bridge Wilderness Hotel. We were impressed by the timber architecture, the huge fire place and the friendly service. Although over salted for my taste, I enjoyed my Shepherd’s pie with salad. James and Graham were less impressed with their rather ordinary fish & chips and kid’s sausages.

The prices here are for a captive audience, as there are no other restaurants nearby. Our meal and drinks nearly cost as much as our night’s accommodation. This situation has been consistent over several years.

James, Christine and graham sitting at a dining table inside the Derwent Bridge hotel

We were a captive audience for a meal at the Derwent Bridge Hotel.

Derwent Bridge Accommodation

Our accommodation at Derwent Bridge Chalets. Not sure what I can say here. The accommodation was warm and comfortable but not friendly. We slept well yet didn’t enjoy the experience. I am reminded of the importance of hospitality. We felt treated like the ‘enemy’ rather than ‘valued guests’. We left promptly the next morning. Prices here were higher than equivalent or better accommodation in North East Tasmania.

After receiving some very unusual and insulting behaviour from the owner, I started reading on-line reviews for our accommodation. This made me quite paranoid about the need to leave the cottage really clean and tidy. Consequently I took photos of how we left the cottage, including the inside of cupboards and drawers. The owner would have been hard pressed to tell that we had been inside the cottage – apart from sleeping in the beds. We stripped the beds and folded the linen, too.

James and Graham in the kitchen area of our accommodation chalet

Of course, we have empathy with accommodation owners wanting to protect their property. Furthermore we totally understand how cleaning costs can wipe away profits. But there were many bad reviews with complaints from guests receiving unexpected cleaning charges. For us, as accommodation operators, it is distressing when a cottage is left in poor condition. But we rarely have had to invoice guests for additional cleaning or damage.

Fifth Day Hydro Electric Heritage Tour : Over the Top of Tasmania

This was the best drive of our journey. Tourists really shouldn’t be worried to visit Tasmania during the winter months.

We glimpsed the old nurse’s accommodation at Bronte Park as we drove through. Years earlier, Graham and a group of young hopefuls set out from Tarraleah on a quest to invite out a group of nurses. They were quickly shown the road by some ugly young blades threatening extreme violence. They were told not to ‘touch’ their women… Ah! The good old days of the 1960’s.

James standing on the side of the road with snow falling in the Tasmanian highlands

James was totally chuffed when it started to snow along the Highland Lakes Highway. We took heaps of photos.

We drove through Miena over the central highlands to Great Lake and continued to the turn off to Tods Corner. Here we turned right onto the C178, then drove through pretty highland farming land to the historic Waddamana power museum

Waddamana Hydro Power Museum

Waddamana was the first Hydro Tasmania power station, soon being joined by Waddamana B and the Shannon.

In 1988 an Australian bicentennial project converted the decommissioned Waddmana A power station into a museum.

Waddammana A had been decommissioned in 1964 and by 1994 all three power stations were decommissioned.

James standing in front of the Waddamana Power Station

This well presented and maintained museum is a must for any tourist interested in Hydro history.

Hydro electric heritage at the Waddamana Power museum
Waddamana Power Museum

Graham Meets up with an Old Friend

Bernadette, the museum attendant, was happy to chat with us and we spent over an hour wandering around. Then it was bound to happen! Graham met an old friend, Frank Cooper in the museum. Frank and his wife Helen were long-term residents of Waddamana till a couple of years ago when they retired as the manager-owners of the Waddamana Field Study Centre. The Field Centre was sold but now stands closed and empty—apparently not the lifestyle the new owners had expected.

The bright sun warmed the air as we ate our picnic lunch in front of the power station. Rusty had a brief run around the car and then it was time to head home.

In the centenary year of hydro generation in Tasmania we were more than ever impressed by the scale of the engineering that has delivered clean energy for Tasmania.

If you wish to learn more about our tourist accommodation in North East Tasmania, please explore our Tin Dragon Cottages web site. We look forward to hosting your next stay in Tasmania!

Renewable Energy Workshop