For a relaxed drive along the scenic Tamar River, combine the Notley Gorge walk with lunch at Moon Lily cafe in Beaconsfield and a winery or two on your drive back to Tin Dragon Cottages.

Where is Notley Gorge?

Notley Fern Gorge Walk

The circuit track starts and ends at a small car park. The well-formed track passes through wet sclerophyll forest down into a fern-filled gully where it crosses the Notely Gorge Creek at several points. This is an easy walk. But be aware that there are many steps–see the image, above. Therefore, the walk may not be suitable for everyone. Allow a generous hour to complete the walk. This will allow you to admire the forest and take photos.

The moisture created by the creek in this valley creates the perfect environment for brightly coloured mosses and ferns.

Canary worm

A brightly coloured worm took my eye. It was slowly sliding across the small mosses (or ferns?) growing on the side of a tree fern. It is commonly called a Canary worm, although it is actually a carnivorous flat worm (Fletchamia sugdeni). These flatworms prey on small invertebrates. It’s shiny appearance results from the production of mucous by numerous cilia on its underside. The motion of the cilia enables it to “glide” over over rough surfaces.

Textures

Of course it is hard to miss the stunning green ferns–of all sizes–surrounding you, as you walk through the gorge. But, I was also drawn to the beauty of the different textures–like the tree bark and small mosses covering the trees.

Facilities at Notley Gorge

Picnic area

Although websites such as Discover Tasmania suggest you should, enjoy the picnic and barbecue area, I couldn’t actually find these facilities at Notley Gorge. There is however a well-maintained family-friendly toilet block.

Lunch break

To make the most of your day out, I recommend you visit one of the excellent small cafes in the region. In our case, we made a last-minute decision to have a Mother’s Day out. So, we drove to the Low Head Pilot Station after completing the walk. I reckon the cafe here serves up the best fish and chips I have ever eaten in the North East! But, sadly that recommendation is now past-tense. Apparently, the local Council shut down the cafe’s deep fryer due to concerns with the heritage building. We made do with cake and coffee instead. But, very good cake and coffee!

I think we should have planned ahead and booked a table at Moon Lily cafe in Beaconsfield. If you do this, you will not be disappointed!

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Tin Dragon Trail Cottages has partnered with the team at Pepper Bush Adventures to provide amazing nature-based tours in the heart of northeast Tasmania.

Tasmanian nature-based tours

Tasmanian wildlife, birds, forests, beaches and Tin Dragon Trail Cottages

Pepper Bush Adventures incorporates our land for wildlife property to offer nature-based tour and accommodation packages that highlight the very best of northeast Tasmania’s natural assets. Pepper Bush Adventures presents the following 2 or 3-day tour options departing the Tin Dragon Trail Cottages:

• Tasmanian Wildlife Safari – Quoll Patrol with Mt William National Park- 2 days / 2 nights
• Bushies Ultimate Wildlife & Rainforest Tour – Quoll Patrol with rainforests and waterfalls – 2 days / 2 nights
• Tasmanian Bird & Wildlife Safari – Quoll Patrol with a day of birding – 2 days / 2 nights
• Tasmanian Bird & Wildlife Safari – Quoll Patrol with 2 days of birding – 3 days / 3 nights
• The Canopy Capers tour is not available in these packages

Tasmanian nature-based Tours – Tin Dragon Special – Package highlights

• 2 or 3 nights B&B in cosy farm stay cottages
• Serene farm setting with attached picturesque bushland and riverwalk
• Tin Dragon Breakfast – scrambled eggs, bacon, cereal, toast
• 2 or 3 days of touring with Pepper Bush Adventures
• Day 1 – afternoon/evening – one of Australia’s best wildlife viewing tours
• Day 2 option – visit the regions rainforests and waterfalls….or
• Day 2 option – visit long white beaches and coastal landscapes…..or
• Day 2 option – visit regional forests or coastal areas for a day of birding
• Day 3 – option for second day of birding
• Hunt for the fascinating platypus
• Morning walk with the alpacas – 30 minutes

Not included –

• Dinners on days 2 and 3 are not included in these packages. The Branxholm Hotel is a short drive for a great pub meal.
• Due to off-site dinners for day 2 and 3, these programs are only available for self-drive travellers – transfers not included
• The Canopy Capers tour is not available from the Tin Dragon Trail Cottages

Want to decrease your carbon footprint? –

There is a daily bus srvice to Branxholm from Launceston, arriving in Branxholm in the evening ~ 6:35 and departing from Branxholm each morning ~ 8:30.

Nature-based tour overviews

Quoll patrol:

Departing 12.00-2.00 pm (seasonal) – Ready for an adventure  – Pepper Bush Adventures’ Quoll Patrol tour has it all! Start by exploring the majestic Ben Lomond National Park – think epic views, towering trees, and possibly a wallaby photo opportunity or two. Then, on to a forest discovery finding hidden treasures, and maybe even talk to a few trees (we won’t judge). As night falls, gather around a crackling campfire for a delicious dinner with some of Australia’s finest (not-so-human) dinner guests – the kangaroos. And as the stars twinkle above, meet some of Tasmania’s nocturnal folk, where you’ll see Australia’s night-shift workers: possums, eastern quolls, and a whole host of other creatures who really know how to party after dark. Bring your sense of adventure and a good pair of boots – it’s going to be a wild ride! See the full tour description here – Quoll Patrol.

Rainforests & waterfalls tour:

Ready to get up close and personal with waterfalls, rainforests, and your inner adventurer? Pepper Bush Adventures’ Rainforests and Waterfalls tour is a splashin’ good time! First, we’ll trek through the lush Mt. Victoria and St. Columba Forest Reserves, where the trees are so tall you’ll wonder if you’re actually in a giant’s backyard. Then, we’re off to the Weldborough Pass Myrtle Rainforest, where the air is so fresh that you’ll feel like you’ve just inhaled an entire spa day. But wait—there’s more! We’ll stop by the stunning Mt Paris Dam, where you can pretend you’re in an action movie, like a seasoned explorer.  Throughout the day, be prepared to marvel at nature’s beauty. Adventure awaits! See a full tour description here – Rainforests and Waterfalls Tour.

Coastal or birding nature-tour day options

Mt William National Park

Get ready to discover Tasmania’s coastal secret – with Pepper Bush Adventures’ Mt William National Park tour! First up, we’ll explore the mesmerising Little Blue Lake, a hidden gem so stunning that it’s like a giant, natural pool. Then, we’ll head into the rugged beauty of Mt William National Park, where you’ll experience sweeping views, wildlife encounters, and a chance to pretend you’re in a nature documentary. Along the way, you’ll spot rare plants and perhaps a few quirky animals who seem to have their own “don’t bother me, I’m busy” attitude. The best part? You’ll leave with a sense of accomplishment, a camera full of jaw-dropping shots, and possibly some new “nature” friends who may or may not include a cheeky wallaby. Let’s get wild! See a full tour description here – Mt William National Park Day Tour

Birding day tour

Pepper Bush Adventures offers a premier birding tour experience in Tasmania, showcasing the island’s rich and diverse birdlife. Nestled in stunning natural landscapes, the tour caters to birdwatchers of all levels, from enthusiasts to seasoned ornithologists. Led by local guides with an intimate knowledge of Tasmania’s unique ecosystems, participants explore pristine habitats, including lush rainforests, serene wetlands, and rugged coastlines. The tour provides opportunities to spot endemic species, such as the Tasmanian native hen, Green Rosella, and Tasmanian Thornbill, alongside migratory and native birds.  In addition to birding, the tour offers insights into Tasmania’s flora, fauna, and cultural heritage, making it a birdwatching adventure. Pepper Bush Adventures ensures a memorable and inspiring birding journey. See a full tour description of here – Tasmanian Birding Day Tour.

Tasmanian nature-based tours – other highlights

Hunt the fascinating platypus

Join Pepper Bush Adventures for a quacky quest like no other – hunting the elusive platypus (with cameras, of course)! Venture into Tasmania’s serene waterways, eyes peeled for ripples and bubbles. Armed with expert guides, local legends, and a healthy dose of patience, you’ll track this quirky, duck-billed, egg-laying wonder of nature. Don’t worry; no platypus are harmed – only egos if they outsmart us! Along the way, enjoy the stunning scenery, and some cheeky banter. It’s part wildlife safari and 100% unforgettable.

Morning walk with the Tin Dragon alpacas

Start your day with a 30-minute whimsical morning walk at Tin Dragon Trail Cottages, where your fluffy, four-legged companions—alpacas—steal the show! Stroll through the picturesque Tasmanian countryside, guided by these gentle, curious creatures with their adorable expressions and quirky personalities. It’s a unique blend of serenity and hilarity as they pause to nibble on grass or flash their toothy grins. This leisurely adventure is perfect for all ages and combines fresh air, breath-taking scenery, and the undeniable charm of alpacas. Whether you’re an animal lover or just alpaca-curious, this delightful experience is sure to leave you grinning ear to ear!

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Flinders Island is all about clear ocean water, deserted beaches, unique rock formations and wind! And, the best way to explore this unique island, is in a van. So, for two weeks in March – April this year, we explored the island in our old Sprinter van.

How to get your van to Flinders Island

It seems strange to me (now) that we have wanted to visit Flinders Island literally for decades! But time and cost were hurdles. For example, in 2024, to fly-drive and stay on Flinders Island can cost around $5-600 per person for airfares and from $300 per day for accommodation and a hire car. Sailing with the Matthew Flinders is an economical option, but there is only one sailing per week and it is dependent on weather and tides. So, this is problematic if you are on a strict timeline. For example, if you need to be back at work on time!

But, this year, all hurdles were knocked out of the way! Our son is now old enough to look after Tin Dragon Cottages (time pressure removed), and our Sprinter van fit-out is almost complete (cost pressure decreased). With the last of the warmer weather closing in on us, we booked our van on the Matthew Flinders barge for a two-week stay on Flinders Island.

Sailing on the Matthew Flinders IV to Flinders Island

All up the return sail for our Mercedes Sprinter (5.9 m) van and ourselves (Graham, Christine and Fraser farm dog) was $1245 in March 2024. Although they have a good web page, I still recommend phoning or visiting the office in Bridport before making your reservation. The pdf schedules may not always be completely up-to-date.

The sailing experience

The Matthew Flinders IV has a guest lounge with toilets, a TV and tea/coffee making supplies with an electric jug and small microwave oven. So, you can make a snack meal and a hot drink. However, we chose to stay in our van for the eight-hour overnight crossing. The guest lounge seats don’t recline BTW.

We settled into our bed. Fraser farm dog behaved well and appeared to sleep for most of the trip. Graham snored most of the way. So, I was left to enjoy the rolling and pitching motion of the ship and the occassional waves breaking over the top of our van. But, the wet deck and the ship motion coupled with the steep stairs up to the toilets made for a hazardous journey. So, I had to be inventive when the inevitable call-of-nature made me uncomfortable! We arrived in Lady Barron at 03:00, then drove the short distance to Yellow Beach.

Driving the length and breadth of Flinders Island

Camping at Yellow Beach near Lady Barron on Flinders Island

Yellow Beach camp ground off Potboil Road is described as being suitable for campervans and 10-15 vehicles, with facilites including a shower. Actually, this is not a campground and there is no shower. However, it is a well-maintained day-use only picnic area right on the beach and a great asset for local community gatherings. There are electric bar-be-ques, picnic tables (including an under cover area), toilets and a rain-water tank.

If you are looking for a shower there is one at the Lady Barron Pier and tennis court car park.

I’m guessing Yellow Beach is a regular stop-over area for vans driving on/off the Matthew Flinders. On the morning we were there, there were three campervans parked on the side of the narrow road next to the picnic area. So, the campground was full!

After a brief sleep and breakfast, we got talking with a couple from Bridport who were heading back on the barge after one-month camping on the island. We asked for their recommendations:

“Oh, I probably shouldn’t tell you this, but (power) pole 41 on West End Road is a great location…”

Camping on Tanners Bay, West End Road, Flinders Island

We took his advice. After leaving Yellow Beach we drove through Lady Barron to Whitemark (~25 mins), then continued on Palana Road beyond the sealed road to the West End road left-hand turn-off. We then bumped our way along the badly corrugated gravel road, counting power poles till we saw a track on the left-hand side, just before pole number 41. Drive time was about 75 mins.

The road in to the beach was a little challenging, but being able to park right next to the beach was a bonus! There were no other campers in sight, so we had our second skinny dip for the day. Even Fraser came in with us!

Then the wind started to pick up.

The next morning we woke to strong wind rocking the van, white caps and churned-up sea grass. There were intermittent blasts of rain throughout the day. No swimming today. But we caught up on extra sleep and I read my first novel for the holiday.

The next morning the wind had eased, but it was cloudy and cold. So we packed up and headed north then east to North East River hoping to escape the wind.

North East River

Palana road up to the right-hand turn-off (East) to North East River was in good condition, but then the road deteriorated into bad corrugations. The road tracks alongside the river and lagoon where we had glimpses of swans and other birdlife. There were numerous 4WD tracks off onto private camps and shacks along the river. This is obviously a popular location for boating, fishing, bird-watching and hunting.

We drove to the end of the road, where there is a turning circle, toilets and picnic table. It was blowing a gale from the east and the more exposed beach, although beautiful, looked dangerous. I imagine there could be strong undertows. For more information about this area read the Furneaux geotrail web site.

We turned back to look for the campsite. There was a short track into the campsite, indicated by Parks & Wildlife signage. The campsite is an open area, lacking privacy and shade for campers and without facilities. In late March it was dry and dusty with black soil and no views. There was a long walk back to the toilets and a shorter walk to a rocky shoreline.

Having been spoilt by our recent campsite, we didn’t feel good about staying here. So we headed back to Palana Road and further north to Palana.

Palana on Flinders Island

At the end of the awfully corrugated road was a small fishing village with no public facilities or camp sites for vans. There were some very smart houses perched on a cliff overlooking a picturescue sweep of beach and signs of new land sub-divisions being established. This would be a luxury getaway destination, but was not suitable for overnight vans.

We turned south, then detoured west to visit Killiecrankie.

Killiecrankie settlement

Killiecrankie is a small fishing village beside another impossibly beautiful beach. It has a cleared area where more than 10 boat trailers with boats were parked. A public picnic area with under-cover electric bar-be-ques and well-maintained toilets is right on the beach front. The site is for day-use only and camping is not permitted here.

We noticed a small rough sign indicating a private campsite, but it didn’t look promising, so we kept driving.

The public picnic areas on Flinders Island are really exceptional!

I should make mention here about how good the public facilities on Flinders Island are. The bar-be-ques and hybrid-flush toilets are all well maintained – with paper and hand soap, and cleaning gear for the bar-be-ques. The gardens are neat and there is no evidence of vandalism or graffiti. These public places are a credit to the local Council and Flinders Island community!

Private roads

Meanwhile, we continued south, back along Palana road. After driving past the Killiecrankie airstrip we noticed a road on our RHS to Boat Harbour (West), so we went exploring. Well, this was a waste of time. It was an uninteresting road surrounded by low scrubby bush that ended in an apparently locked gate. The road was well maintained. On the Google maps Boat Harbour beach looks like a promising camping destination. In fact, a Flinders Island local suggested it to us and was surprised when we mentioned the gate and locked access. I guess “local knowledge” is needed to access this beach.

So we continued south along Palana Road.

Castle Rock on Marshall Bay Flinders Island

Heading south on Palana Road, just before the sealed section is a right-hand turn to Marshall Bay and Castle Rock (west, sign-posted). This is a short detour worth taking. The road ends on a large granite outcrop, where there is a picnic table and views over Marshall Bay (photo, above). From here there is a very easy short walk down to the iconic Castle Rock. This could be a fun overnight stop for a campervan on a less windy day!

Emita, Wybalenna, Allports Beach

Back on the sealed section of Palana Road we took the western (RHS) turnoff to Emita and Port Davies Road. After Emita, we headed to Wybalenna Chapel. This is a beautiful but solemn place where the past whispers to you. We vistited the small cemetery nearby and reflected on the tragedy of the place, but also the remarkable resilience of the Tasmanian Aboriginal people.

The grassed area where the chapel and cemetery sit is littered with wombat poo and burrows (see the dark spots in the photo, above)!

Allports campground and beach

After following the signs to Allports Beach, we ended up at a well set-up day-use-only picnic area where some cars were parked. The beach isn’t visible from the picnic ground, but apparently it isn’t far away. We weren’t sure where the campground was, so we turned back and found a steep over grown track that apparently accesses the camping site. But, our van wasn’t going to negotiate this track, so we left without seeing Allports Beach. Back on Port Davies Road, we continued past the turnoff to Wybalenna till we saw a sign-posted track on the left to Lillies Bay.

Camping at Lillies Bay, Port Davies Road, Flinders Island

We bumped along the rough and at times, washed-out, Port Davies Road in our old van till we reached a private gate (530 Port Davis Road). Close by was a turn-around area that made an excellent campsite and best of all — there was no one else around!

Evidence of previous campers included an almost usable long-drop toilet with remants of fresh loo paper and some fishing equipment under a bush. We settled in immediately, having a nutritious dinner made with fresh foods brought from home. Then we enjoyed a long comfortable sleep from 7:30 pm.

The next morning, we lay in bed watching the sun rise over the water. I enjoyed a leisurely swim, while Graham was cooking breakfast. Today, it was sunny enough to put up the awning on our van. However, because of the windy conditions, this was the only day we used the awning.

After breakfast I headed back into the water. Graham had a quick dip (duck dive fashion) then went exploring with Fraser. After lunch, I had another swim, of course! Then I sat in the sun, on a rock to dry out. Oh, and I may have done some knitting, too! We were in bed by 7:30 and lights out by 8:30pm. Another great day in paradise!

Skinny dipping in Lillies Bay on Flinders Island

The next morning (Saturday), it was partially overcast. Then after a calm start to the day, the wind came in. But, down on the beach it was still sheltered, so I spent the day on the beach – swimming, sitting in the sun and reading a book. Graham had another very short swim, then took Fraser for a walk. It was slow pace and relaxing.

Fraser disgraced himself by chasing a large wallaby into the bay. He even swam in after it! So, Fraser was put back on his lead.

Campervan cuisine

Campervan cuisine

Meeting local residents

In the afternoon a family from Emita arrived. They spent the afternoon snorkling around the rocks in search of abalone. No more skinny dipping for me. Instead, I walked in waste-deep water exploring around the rocks.

The family of three had moved to Flinders Island from New Zealand several months earlier. The husband was working on local shipping around Tasmania and New Zealand, while his wife had employment at a local child-care centre. They seemed very happy to be living here.

Meeting Zeer

In the late afternoon a lady in a small 4WD arrived and set up camp immediately behind us. She joined us for a chat. This lovely lady, named Zeer, had moved to Whitemark from Hobart several years ago and was working on Flinders Island as a contract gardener. Lillies Bay is one of her favourite get-away camping locations.

Zeer convinced us we should return to Jude’s private campground in Killiecrankie, because the walks along the beach and up the mountain were “not to be missed”. She also recommended returning to West End Road and driving further to Leeka and out to Egg Beach.

Strong wind from the west

Early Sunday morning, Zeer left us a postcard wishing us well for our holiday on Flinders Island. The wind coming in from the west was fierce, there were white caps in the bay and it was cold. No wonder that Zeer had packed up!

Mobile phone coverage on Flinders Island

We stayed in our van, reading, listening to the radio and speaking to James. Yes! there was good Telstra coverage across Flinders Island. We phoned Jude in Killiecrankie who informed us that the weather was unpleasant there, too, and not suitable for walks. She suggested waiting a few days.

Patriarch Inlet

Drought and weeds

We turned East to escape the wind, following the sealed road (C801) to Memana and gravel road to Patriarch Inlet. This took us through very dry cattle and sheep country where the extent of the drought and infestations of feral weeds were obvious. There were large tussocks of pampas grass at the entrance to several properties.

Another weed, hard to miss on Flinders Island, is the Sea spurge that grows along the beaches. It even features in some of my photos.

No bird-watching today!

The road ends with a small car-parking area at the mouth of the Patriarch River. Here there is a picnic table, some interpretation signage and a track out onto the sand flats. There are no other facilities, and camping is not permitted. At high tide, you can’t walk very far. Under good weather conditions and low tide, this would be an interesting and beautiful walk. It looked like there could be soldier crabs at low tide, too.

I didn’t see signs prohibiting dogs. But because of the abundant birdlife you should keep your dog, either in your car, or on a short leash.

While we stopped to talk with a couple of bird-watchers, there were other tourists in hire-cars coming and going (quickly) . They had their binoculars ready to observe the birdlife. But, because of the poor weather, there wasn’t much to see. Then it started to rain, so we all packed up and left!

The bird-watching couple were staying at Flinders Island Cabin Park and Hire Car near Whitemark. They were heading out daily for short walks and sight-seeing. Their accommodation and car-hire package cost $1500 for nine days.They said their cabin was too small, but still OK.

Seeking shelter in Lady Barron

We returned to Lady Baron via Lachrana Road (C803) then Lady Barron Road (B85). This takes you past the transfer station, so we dumped our rubbish. After driving down Pot Boil Road, past the Furneaux Tavern, we reached Yellow Beach picnic area. A very large caravan and 4WD parked near the turn-around, meant there was no room for us to park, so we returned towards the town again.

We found a small rough tack down to an area where people put their kayaks into the water. Here there was a flat area sheltered under a canopy of tea trees. This was not exactly like the picturesque camps we had been enjoying! But it gave us some shelter from the wind gusts and rain. Regardless, we still slept well.

The next morning (Monday), the wild weather persisted. We drove back to Yellow Beach, only to find the Victorian man with the large caravan still there. We spoke briefly with him. It had cost him over $3000 to bring his big rig over to Flinders Island on the Matthew Flinders! He did lot of whinging about the National Parks management on Flinders Island and then shared his rather bizarre views on why we were paying so much money to maintain the National Parks. After filling our water tank with fresh rain water, we decided to bid him goodbye and head back to Whitemark.

Groceries in Whitemark

Droving cattle along the road

We drove the coastal road back to Whitemark. This is an interesting alternative to the sealed road. Here we met up with a drover walking his cattle alongside the road. This grazier explained that Flinders isalnd was experiencing one the worst droughts ever.

The Sydney Troopy Campers

In Whitemark, we ran in to a couple at the IGA, who had come over on the Matthew Flinders with us. This older couple from Sydney were travelling in a Troopy Camper (Toyota 4WD conversion). The last few days they had been camping at Patriarchs reserve and North East River. Apparently they got very wet on a recent walk and needed to dry out in Whitemark. It was obvious, they didn’t want to stop and talk with us. BTW my son tells me I talk too much!

Excellent IGA

Walkers IGA on Patrick St, is surprisingly good for such a small town! It is like the tardis–bigger on the inside than on the outside. We were able to stock up on fresh foods, including Tassie apples, salad vege, loaf bread and Easter buns.

Friendly cafe staff

We had a not-t00-impressive coffee at an unnamed cafe opposite the closed Flinders Island Bakery on Lagoon Road. The cafe food may not have been a highlight of our trip to Flinders Island, but the staff were friendly and the cafe was warm and comfortable. The other small cafe, Cate Cooks, on Lagoon St was closed.

Earlier, Zeer had recommended the Trousers Point coastal walk. So, taking her advice, we turned south and headed to Trousers Point.

Camping at Trousers Point

At the end of Trouser Point Road there is a small car parking area with excellent day-use-only facilities (under cover electric BBQs and picnic tables, well stocked clean hybrid toilets). A short distance away is the camping ground which is for tents only and has no suitable space for campervans.

We also explored the road to Fotheringate Beach, but the sloping car park here, was not suitable for a campervan, either. So we stayed parked in front of the no camping sign at Trousers Point for the night!

Trousers Point coastal walk

Despite the wind gusts, we decided to walk the coastal track to Fotheringate Beach. This walk lived up to its reputation as a great short walk. We walked on an angle, as the off-shore wind blew us uphill. The ocean was boiling and the waves were crashing below onto the rocks. Mount Chappell Island dominated the coastal view for much of the walk. This island has an infamous reputation for growing Tiger snakes! High above us, the mist was swirling round the granite outcrops. Hold on to your hat, it was a terrific short walk!

The inquisitive wallabies, were too big a temptation for Fraser, so he was confined to barracks (inside the van) while we completed the coastal walk. BTW Fraser was the reason we didn’t attempt the Mount Strzelecki walk. Dogs are not permitted in the National Park.

It was too cold for a swim today!

After the walk, we enjoyed our Easter buns with coffee. Then Graham settled in for a snooze. Fraser, meanwhile, couldn’t keep his eyes off the wallabies near our van. I wished I could have anaesthetised him! Van life. We had a salad wrap for dinner, talked with James on the mobile, read books, knitted and watched wallabies. It was a very moon-lit evening outside. Lights out at 10.

Tuesday morning Graham cooked french-fried easter buns, juice and coffee for breakfast. Then we enjoyed a slow walk on Trousers Point Beach.

Interesting seaweeds on the beach

As we were packing up to leave, Zeer arrived with her son and his girlfriend to do the coastal walk. We enjoyed another chat and were given another great tourist tip – Walkers Lookout off Memana Road (C803).

So, off we headed, via Whitemark and the IGA. We needed to buy doggy dental sticks to remove Frasers doggy breath!

Walkers Lookout

Walkers Lookout is sign-posted off Memana Road (c803). Zeer wasn’t exaggerating when she said this is the best hill on the island to view all the mountain ranges and scenery out to the ocean. Although, the experience was somewhat diminished for us, due to the strong wind and low cloud cover. But the experience was still worth negotiating the scary steep and narrow gravel road and wind-chill factor at the top.

There are no public facilites on this hill-top clearing, just a Telstra tower. But there are excellent interpretation signs, describing the features you can see.

Camping at Killiecrankie on Flinders Island

Based on Zeer’s recommendation, we had phoned Jude and booked two nights at her private campground. So, we bumped our way along on the Killiecrankie road again.

Jude was fully booked, but managed to find us a camp site down a rarely used side road on her property. The camp ground is very basic. It has a simple cement-block toilet and shower. Although it is up to guests to clean the bathroom, it was very clean. It is also up to guests to fire up the timber-fuelled hot water system if they wish to have a warm shower. (We chose to use our own gas-heated shower. BTW the Smarttek gas shower was the only “fail” I awarded to our van equip during the trip)

The campground has no views, but it is right next to the beach behind a sand dune, and only a short walk to the town’s public facilites, which are excllent.

Killiecrankie Beach is a short walk from the campground

The Sydney Troopy campers were staying at Jude’s too. The advantage to booking a site here, is not only that it is cheap (~$10 per day), but you can drive out during the day and still have your site when you return. So this makes a good home-base for exploring the island.

Flinders Island olive orchard

Jude has a 1000-tree olive orchard, too. She is a lovely lady (about our age) who has been living on the Flinders Island for around 30 years. Apparently the campground and its basic facilites were originally provided for the volunteer olive pickers for her farm. But, because there was demand for camping at Killiecrankie she opened it up for tourists, outside the harvesting period. It was sad to hear that her business partner and co-founder of the olive farm had died. I imagine It is not easy to manage the property on her own. I would love to have talked with her more, but she was very busy preparing olive oil for an important client from Sydney. We did manage to purchase some of her award-winning olive oil though!

Killiecrankie diamonds

We also met a local man called Sandro Donati who was helping Jude. He helped us too – with filling our water tank. And, he shared some amazing crisp, juicy apples from his garden with us!

We caught up with Sandro in his gallery, The White Shack, when were back in Whitemark. Turns out that he is a talented gold and silversmith. He showed us a collection of Killiecrankie daimonds, from raw to polished, cut and set. You should check out his gallery and have a chat. He is a most interesting character!

Beach walk to Stacky’s Bight

The next morning looked close to ideal for beach walking. But, of course, we still had a slow start. What is a holiday, if you can’t sleep in? After an amazing hot breakfast of bacon, eggs, tomato etc, we set out along the beach at 11 am.

Some track notes suggest you should only “attempt” this walk at low tide, and the same notes make the walk seem a little daunting. But the reality is that the easy walk across the rocks is well marked and we only encountered rising tide water in one small cove.

If you wish to avoid the beach rock-hopping, then you can walk along a 4WD track above the beach. You will find the entry point to this track just in front of the only private beach house near Quoin Road. Note that when you reach a fork in the 4WD track (heading to Stacky’s), take the top fork in the road.

The tracks are well marked

There is an intersection in the track where you can either continue to Stacky’s Bight, or head off to the East Peak (K1) of Mount Killiecrankie. This is the Diamond Gully Track. We continued to Stacky’s Bight. The walking track takes you up some wooden steps above the Bight. Then there are steps down to a beach suitable for swimming. There is evidence here of families having used this beach – fishing gear, a child’s sunglasses, a hat and a stand-up paddle board. We returned to the track and contined to the Dock.

Living rough near the beach

Later, we heard the story behind the abandoned SUP (stand-up-paddle board). Apparently, a very fit (and eccentric?) man had lived just behind the beach in a makeshift shack for many months. Residents at Killiecrankie used see him paddling across the bay.

We didn’t continue to The Dock because we were distracted by a wallaby track going under some bush, which revealed a less-used track down to another more secluded bay. We couldn’t resist exploring this track. You can see me standing above the beach (photo, above). The track was a little slidey, but there were some helpful tree roots and branches to assist.

Time for a swim – naturally!

Who could resist this clear calm water? We spent some time here. When it was time to leave, I was pleased nobody could see us doing our Mr Bean contortion act trying to get dressed without getting sand in our socks, undies, clothes… It was warm enough today to get sunburnt. What a contrast to the previous days!

Of course when we were back on the track above the beach, the Sydney Troopy Campers were marching down the track in front of us. Presumably they had walked to the Dock? They had a near miss LOL.

We didn’t continue the ~45 minutes further to the Dock. We were back at our van by 3 pm. Brave little Fraser completed the walk with us. But he harassed us to be carried on the final leg of the beach walk.

Checking out the weather conditons for Easter

After a cold night we woke to mostly blue skies on Thursday morning. After taking Fraser for a walk along Killiecrankie Beach to Diamond Creek, we talked with some Council workers and two policemen at the Killiecrankie park. I’m guessing they were checking out the beach conditions for the Easter weekend! The forecast was looking good!

We left Killiecrankie mid-morning to take a look at Sawyers Beach.

Camping at Sawyers Beach, Arthurs Bay

At Arthurs Bay, we followed a rough track down to the beach. It took some skilled driving, not to disappear into a deep rut. But, by lunchtime we had set up camp on Sawyers Beach next to a picnic table. There were no other facilites here. To us, it looked perfect!

Perfect bay for kayaks and fishing boats, too!

The weather was good and the water was crystal clear. So, I was about to dash in au naturale, when I noticed a lone kayaker. He came ashore right in front of us! Fortunately he didn’t set up camp, but he did stay for a couple of hours, till his partner picked him up in a ute.

Then, just as Graham was attempting a clothing optional swim, a man and his son arrived with a small fishing boat. They set a net just off the shore, then came over for a chat. The man promised us a fish, if he managed to catch anything.

Undeterred, we walked further down the beach where large rounded boulders were partially submerged in the water. We were floating around, enjoying the sunshine, when, blow-me-down, a group of kayakers silently came in around the boulders and sprung us. We had thought we were safe hiding behind a large rock!

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Fish on Good Friday and the kindness of strangers

On Friday morning, just as the sun was breaking, we were woken by Thursday’s fishers arriving to check their nets. (BTW Fraser, didn’t allow the intruders to sneak in.) Regarding the fish, we were out of luck because the only fish they caught was a flathead half-eaten by a stingray.

We went back to sleep, only to be woken up again around 7:30 by a woman knocking on our door, Come on! Get up! I’ve got your breakfast! Our fisherman’s sister arrived to give up some Snapper fillets. Afterall, she said, they couldn’t let us eat tinned tuna on Good Friday! How delightful. So we enjoyed snapper grilled in butter with lemon juice for lunch and dinner.

Perfect Easter weather

The sun was out and there was almost no wind. In the morning there was a very low tide, so we went exploring around the rocks.

There were other visitors, too. The mother and daughter from Emita, who we had met at Lillies Bay, went for a long walk along the beach and rocks, a young couple walked (briefly) around the rocks and grandparents enjoyed a swim with a young child. So, it was a little too communal for skinny dipping LOL.

The young girl from Emita showed us her collection of interesting finds, including sea urchin, abalone and small crab and scallop shells. Flinders Island must be a great place for a child to grow up!

So, it was another great day of exploring, swimming, sitting on the beach, knitting and reading. I finished another book and knitted another beanie!

The interesting granite rocks around Sawyers Beach

Living on the edge

Mutton bird season on Flinders Island

In the afternoon our fishers returned. This time they had a larger boat and joked about having a boat for every day of the week! The family headed out about 4 kms to a small island to go mutton-birding. It was a successful trip. Each of the three family members collected 25 mutton bird chicks.

I was secretly pleased that they didn’t offer to give us one. Although I have eaten mutton bird–baked, grilled and smoked–I can’t say I am a great fan of this delicasy. It’s a bit like eating durian. It tastes good while you are eating it, but then you regret the experience, because the smell stays with you long after it has been digested.

Camping in Whitemark on the wharf

Saturday morning was another day of calm sunny weather. Today, we packed up by 9:30 and headed back to Whitemark.

Whitemark laundromat

We did our laundry in the well-maintained, clean laundromat opposite the cafe with no name in Lagoon St. Here we met up with the Sydney Troopy couple and the group of rock-climbers who had been camping at Jude’s. Always good to have a chat!

Lunch at The Wharf

We parked on the Whitemark wharf not far from The Wharf where we enjoyed lunch out on the deck (with Fraser). They had seriously good pastries and coffee, but unfortunately no crisp green salads. By this time, I was missing the fresh garden salads! Even the local IGA had run out of salad mixes for the Easter long-weekend.

Friendly local community in Whitemark on Flinders Island

We had a walk around Whitemark, dropping in to an artist’s gallery and Sandro’s White Shack. A small timber shed was open as a fresh market. We purchased some delicious apples. Then we settled in for a music session on the steps of the local pub. Easter Saturday was a pleasant day to be out and about.

Not so private over-night campsite on the wharf

We decided to stay parked on the wharf for the night. So, we sat up watching families fishing off the wharf and then listening to the loud dinner party at the restaurant. About one week earlier, we had tried to make a reservation for the same dinner, but it was sold out. This was to be a treat for my birthday. Instead, we dined in.

We were bathed in flood light till quite late. Three excitable young Kelpies danced around trying to entice Fraser out of the van, till the owners finally left at about 8pm. Each time I tried to leave the van to visit the public loo, the dogs jumped on me licking my legs and trying to push past me to get into the van. So, I had to hold on!

Finally the lights dimmed and the wharf fell silent except for the swish and slap of the ocean against the wharf.

The Wombat Rock Walk to the summit of Mount Killiecrankie

Easter Sunday was calm and sunny across the Island, so we decided it was the best day to climb Mount Killiecrankie.

On Palana road, we drove past the LHS turn-off to Killiecrankie heading to Palana. At about 6.6 km past this turn-off there is a power pole (#321) on the RHS with a supporting stay (#31) on the LHS. This is the LHS (west) turn-off to Dock Road which takes you to the start of the Wombat Rock walk. It was not sign-posted when we were there.

The road was in poor condition with deep ruts and was challenging in places. There is a turn-around car parking area (called top car park) just before the start of a closed 4WD track. I’m guessing this steep 4WD track ends at The Dock rock formation.

The Top Carpark

On Easter Sunday, there were a few vehicles parked in the Top Carpark. Just note, that you should take care where you park, because other cars arriving after you may make it difficult to drive out. (This was the case for us!)

It was disappointing to see energy-bar wrappers and drink bottles and cans discarded in the car park. Everywhere else we had been, had been so clean! We picked up the rubbish and took it with us in the van.

The track to Mount Killiecrankie on Flinders Island is well marked

We met other small groups walking on the K1 track, but only one couple continued with us to K1. Presumably, the others were walking to Stacky’s Bight and the Dock. We met up with Freya and Scott at the K1 summit where they took our photo. This couple originally met 30 years ago when they were both visiting Flinders Island and were now happily living at Blue Rocks. Of course, it is a small world – they are related to some people who live near us in Branxholm!

Community-maintained tracks and signs

They explained to us that the track and signage was built and is maintained by local volunteers, including themselves. They have done an amazing job, too! The track is easy to follow and not too steep or difficult. Although, I wouldn’t recommend completing the walk to the summit in high wind or rain.

We sat in the shade of a large granite boulder looking out at the view while we ate lunch. It’s was good to soak in the expansive views. We were back at our car before 13:00. Fraser was pleased to curl up in his bed!

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Camping at Leeka on Flinders Island

Taking yet more of Zeer’s earlier advice we returned south on Palana Road and west onto Westend Road. We drove past our earlier campsite near pole 41 to a T intersection. In front of us was an older-style house. The road splits here to Mount Tanner (RHS) and 4WD track only (LHS).

Oh no! We assumed this was the end of the road for us, so we turned to drive back. Then a small buzz box sedan went zooming past us down the track leaving a cloud of dust!

So we parked and went for a walk to check out the condition of the road. One fork in the road lead down to a dry creek and didn’t look too promising and the other lead uphill. After walking for some distance, we made the decision to bring the van up the road. While I waited in the shade on the side of the road with Fraser (Yes! it was actullay hot) Graham started walking back.

He didn’t need to walk far before a man in a ute picked him up and drove him back to our van. This was great because, the man was able to give Graham the local Intel. The road was in good condition and suitable for our van. The best beach camping sites at the end of the road were occupied, but we might like to camp near the boat ramp.

We found a great park site on top of a granite rock slab. The nearby ramp was busy with small boats and families, so it wasn’t as private as we may have liked. But, of course, busy on Flinders Island is nothing like busy on popular Tasmanian or mainland beaches!

It was just a short hop, skip and jump into the sparkling clear water, and that’s exactly what I did!

Best swim on Finders Island

The next morning, the low tide revealed a gently sloping beach. The water was calm and deep. This was definately the best and longest swim I had on Flinders Island. It was bliss!

We were also joined in the water by a group of two men and a woman. They were staying a few kilometres away in short-stay accommodation. They were frequent visitors to Flinder Island, and like several other visitors we had met, they were actively seeking to purchase a beach house on the island.

Although there were several beach houses in Leeka for short-term rental, nothing beats the freedom of just parking a van next to the water!

Rough weather alert – sailing postponed

By mid afternoon the wind had picked up and the previously calm ocean was whipping up into white caps. Then the rain started. We packed up in case we needed to leave in a hurry. However, the man who had driven Graham down the road the day before was at the boat ramp and he reassured us that even if there was heavy rain, our van would drive out OK. So we stayed warm and cosy in our van all night and didn’t leave till after indulgent french-fried easter buns and coffee for breakfast.

It was hard to imagine just how perfect the weather had been the previous day. Because now, the wind was wild and the sea was rough. Then, we received a text informing us that the ship had been delayed by at least 12 hours. It was so good to be in a van and to have mobile phone reception! Delays like this could be problematic if we had stayed in short-term accommodation.

Camping at Whitemark (again)

Dont bother with Badgers Corner

On the advice of a local at one of our campsites, we drove through Whitemark and Lady Barren to explore Badger Corner. Badger Corner Road is a no through road that hugs a shoreline of tidal sand and mud flats opposite agricultural grazing land. I don’t recommend this drive, because there were no obvious places to explore the shore, just boat ramps. Then the road comes to an abrupt end at a gate to private property. Graham had to reverse more than 100 m to find an area to turn our van around!

Camping on the Esplanade

We poked around Lady Barren looking for a place to stay overnight, but didn’t feel good about the options. Back to Whitemark, we drove. This time we camped on the Esplanade in a day use only area near a picnic table (image-1 below)

Driving down the Esplanade in Whitemark towards the Golf (and other sports) Club there is a great potential location for vans right next to the water (images 2 and 3 , above). Unfortunatley this was closed-off with a temporary fence and a tractor. So, once again we ended up parking in a no camping area.

Our last day on Flinders Island

After enjoying morning tea in the Whitemark Hotel’s cosy cafe, re-fueling with diesel and generally hanging around in Whitemark talking with locals and tourists, we arrived back in Lady Barren in the late afternoon.

We parked at the pier. I had a hot shower, then settled in for some knitting and listening to the radio. Graham and Fraser amused themselves with a walk around the pier and talking to some yachties. We had our last dinner on board the van, then departed Lady Barren at 11 pm, arriving back in Bridport around 7 am.

In the spotlight

Our sail back home was simliar to our trip to Flinders, except for having a new Captain. Our new Captain, was more by-the-rule than our previous captain. He was reluctant to allow us to overnight in our van, so he put some conditions on us. He threatened to monitor the cameras down on the deck, and if we were seen out of our van, we would be marched upstairs to the passenger lounge for the duration!

Well, that didn’t sound too onerous. As we were leaving the pier, it was dark down on the deck and perfect for sleeping. But, soon as were we out at sea, flood lights came on and we were lit up like a theatre stage! This was a tad embarrassing. But Graham managed to snore through the epic.

Knitting? Did I mention knitting?

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The track to the summit of Mount Stronach is not really spectacular. But this is a great little walk if you have a few hours, want to get your heart rate up and be rewarded with views out to the ocean.

Where is Mount Stronach?

Lying 4 kilometres east of Scottsdale, the mountain rises from 130 metres above sea level to 465 metres at the summit and covers an area of over 1000 hectares.

Mt. Stronach is described as a ‘monadnock’ which is a prominent rounded mountain-sized landform rising from the surrounding plain. It is actually a large mass of erosion formed from granite between 350 and 400 million years ago.

Do you need a 4WD vehicle?

Buckneys Road is a well-maintained unsealed road. Historically, this was not the case. In the past, the road was not always accessible, because of locked gates and bad road conditions. So, although we drove our 4WD, we didn’t need it! We could easily have driven our family sedan.

Because we drove our 4WD vehicle, I had an elevated view of the scenery on our way home. So I was dismayed to see the collection of rubbish beside the road–with so many drink bottles and coffee cups! And, I thought Tasmania was introducing a container refund scheme in 2022?

A family-friendly walk

Our family has walked to the summit of Mount Stronach many times over the years. I love the photo of young James walking the track in 2005 (below).

The track is an easy grade. However, you still need to take care by wearing sturdy walking shoes and taking a windproof jacket. You should allow about 2.5 hours for this walk. Last Sunday we walked about one hour to reach the Lookout. But, because it was starting to rain we didn’t walk the extra 20 minutes or so (return) to the actual summit.

Mount Stronach Walking Track

The track was originally contructed by local volunteers and is now maintained by Forestry Tasmania. In 1903 community members erected a rock cairn on the summit to commemorate Federation.

The lower slopes of the Mount Stronach walk

At the base of the mountain, the track winds through wet bushland. After recent rains, the understory was green with ferns. You can still see large tree stumps in the re-growth bush. I was also delighted to see a rough tree fern.

Water features and gardening?

Because of our older age and my interest in photography 😉 , we walked slowly and stopped occasionally. We heard a mysterious gurgling sound in a burnt-out tree stump. It was fascinating. When we hit the stump, the sound was louder. Then we noticed water streaming out of the ground a short distance away. We thought it could be a natural spring.

So, on our way back from the Lookout, we kept an eye out for the magic stump. This time, we also heard a sharp swishing sound parallel to the track above the magic stump. Investigation revealed a poly irrigation pipe not far from the track. The pipe had neatly drilled holes watering the ground.

OK. We can speculate. But I did hear from a friend-of-a-friend that they had found a gardener’s table littered with gardening tools in the bush on the lower slopes of Mount Stronach.

It pays to be observant

There is plenty of interest in the understory.

The upper slopes of the Mount Stronach walk

As you walk uphill, the bushland opens up with less understory. Here there are dry forests of peppermint and stringy bark eucalyptus with white gum and dry white top stringy bark around the rocky knolls along the ridgeline. There is evidence of past hot fires, too. Because Mount Stronach is subject to frequent fires causing damage and soil loss.

In the poorly-drained areas tea tree bush takes over and the exposed granite slabs are often covered in Kunzea scrub.

The summit Lookout is the reward!

Stay a while to enjoy the view and a cuppa!

Mount Stronach history

The Northeast tribe, known as Pyemmairrener, are the orignal inhabitants of this region. Aboriginal artifacts found at the summit indicate that the mountain was used by the aboriginal population.

Following European settlement, Mount Stronach was prospected for tin. But very little was found except in some of the streams flowing out from the lower slopes. Some water races were constructed to collect water for hydraulic mining of alluvial tin.

Early settlers cut the better stands of forest for saw logs and fencing material in the early part of the 20 century. Horses or bullocks pulled the trees downhill on rough logging tracks.

The severely eroded logging tacks are now popular for mountain-biking and four-wheel driving.

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April 2022: Need a few hours of forest bathing? Then this short drive from Tin Dragon Cottages is perfect! We packed our lunch and headed for Halls Falls.

Where is Halls Falls?

Some local history of Halls Falls

In the nineteenth century this area was mined for tin by Chinese miners. Above Halls Falls you can visit the weir built by these miners. The hand-made weir was built to divert water into water races used for tin mining.

More recently the area was selectively logged. In fact, Halls Falls is named after Willis Hall who set up a portable sawmill downstream of Halls Falls on the Groom River.

Local residents told us that the Hall brothers wanted the area protected for its beauty. So, although you can still see the immense tree stumps from large trees felled last century, the area around the falls has been preserved.

Saved from logging

You can enjoy this short walk because of the efforts of many local Tasmanians. A significant track upgrade was completed in September 2015. This was part of the Tasmanian Community Forest Walks Project, which was supported by Environment Tasmania through funding from the Australian Government.

An easy walk for families

The return distance to the weir is about 2km from the interpretation signs. This is an easy, mostly flat (Class 3) track. However, Environment Tasmania has classified the short section descending to the base of the the falls as Class 4. You should allow yourself about two hours to explore all the short tracks around the Groom River.

Although this is an easy walk, you should wear good walking shoes. The track was slippery after the recent rain.

About 750m from the track entrance there is a viewing platform. Here you can look down to Halls Falls.

Track up to the weir

From the viewing platform you can choose the track to the left taking you upstream to the historic weir. A short distance in, there is also short sidetrack to rock pools downstream of the weir.

By returning to the main track you can walk another short track up to the base of the weir. Here you have a better view of the weir.

The track then continues further upstream beside the peaceful clear Groom River.

After about ten minues, we decided to return downstream back to the viewing platform.

Zig-zag track down to Halls Falls

The track to the right of the viewing platform descends steeply via a couple of switchbacks to the base of Halls Falls. Of course walking this short track is the whole reason for driving out to Halls Falls!

We sat on a large rock below the falls to enjoy our cup of tea and sandwiches–Shinrin-yoku!

Returning to the car park we walked the 750m loop track. This takes you through dry eucalypt forest. After the April rains the area was heavily scented with peppermint and eucalyptus.

This family-friendly easy walk well deserves it’s Google review’s rating of >4.5.

This is our family’s experience of walking the 65km Tasmanian Overland Track in April 2017. The iconic Overland Track crosses from from Cradle Mountain to Lake St Clair through world-class temperate rainforests and rugged mountains.

Waldheim Cottages at Cradle Mountain

Our adventure started in the Cradle Mountain National park. Because the rustic self-contained Waldheim Cottages are near the start of the Overland track, this was perfect accommodation for our first night.

These beautiful surroundings have rich history as the gateway to Cradle Mountain. Gustav Weindorfer the original owner of Waldheim Chalet had declared of the Cradle Mountain region “This must be a national park for the people for all time”. And we are certainly lucky to be enjoying this amazing place in the new millennium!

Overland Track Day 1: Ronny’s Creek to Waterfall Valley (10.7 km)

I felt soft misty rain on my face and a jumble of excited tension in my stomach as James and Graham signed us in for the walk at 9:00am. Apparently, the first day is widely thought to be the most difficult section of the track. However, this was just a taster, really. There were more challenging days in front of us!

We had a relaxed walk over button grass plains then a steady uphill climb on well-formed track before a steep climb from Crater Lake to Marions Lookout (1250m). Worried about my camera hitting a rock, I passed it to James (my son) who took the photo of me (above).

Back in possession of my camera I became too busy trying to get the best angle on Cradle Mountain and Dove Lake to feel the effects of the climb.

At Marions Lookout it was difficult to take a photo without including other tourists. Behind James, on the sensitive area—labelled Rehabilitation. Please Keep Off—is a group of tourists taking a selfie!

I was surprised to see so many tourists had made their way up to Marions Lookout. The last time I walked up here in the late 90’s Graham and I were lonely figures on the plateau. We were told by a trekking guide that there are up to 60 people per day walking the Overland Track. But I guess there were around 100 people walking to and from Marions Lookout while we were there.

I slowed the team down by taking several hundred photos during the next six days. But with landscapes like this who wouldn’t?

All those downhill steps to Waterfall Valley

Shortly after our lunch break at Kitchen Hut we came to the intersection of Lake Rodway (Scott Kilvert Hut) and Waterfall Valley tracks. A cheery left-hand sign suggested a one-hour walk to Waterfall Valley.

But the celebrations were short-lived! Because the track deteriorated into something resembling a washed-out eroded creek bed full of slippery wet rocks. Previously well-formed steps had become wash-outs up to 500mm deep. I made my way slowly and carefully down the many steps. Meanwhile, my camera became a painful 1.5 kg hindrance around my neck.

My slow progress was the result of a previous severe knee injury (de-gloved). I was (and still am) terrified of falling over.

I felt like a yoyo stepping on and off the track as it seemed every person on the Overland Track—all 60 of them including James and Graham—overtook me. One hour turned into at least two hours, when finally I arrived at Waterfall Valley Hut at 4:30pm. My legs were wobbly jelly about to collapse and my knee had started to ache. (Fortunately, my friend Voltarin kept me on track.)

Lessons one and two

So on the first day I learnt two valuable lessons: 1) suggested walk times for the Overland track are minimum times, and 2) I needed to pack my camera away to walk the rougher sections of track.

Consequently, I stopped taking photos when my need for careful walking was greater than my desire to capture the scenery.

About the Overland Track huts…

I was impressed by the huts which all had a similar layout of communal timber bunks and stainless steel-covered tables and benches for camp cooking. In mid-April they were cozy and comfortable without the need to light up the gas heaters. However, solar lighting would be helpful. Perhaps a charging point for devices (although it is a wilderness walk, after all!) could be considered? But a more efficient space for drying wet clothes would be the most welcome improvement to the huts!

Graham’s deadly reputation

Despite the excellent huts, the camp sites became more popular than the huts after our first night. Apparently this coincided with Graham gaining a reputation as slow by day and deadly by night. Personally I think his reputation was greatly exaggerated—but perhaps I got to sleep quickly each evening?

There were ample camping platforms near all the huts, and there were additional sites at other locations along the track, too.

Soon, however, our family had teamed up with Brian and Dennis to share a sleeping platform each night. As we got to know them better we discovered we had more in common than just noisy night-time breathing and our age-group. They live in the region where I grew up. Brian even thought he may know some of my cousins.

This year (2021) Brain and his wife Paula stayed with us in Branxholm. It was terrific to catch up.

Overland Track Day 2: Waterfall Valley to Lake Windermere (7.8km)

Sunrises were crisp and clear like this one captured at Waterfall Valley on our second morning on the Overland Track.

Today our official track notes suggested a leisurely, relatively flat walk to Lake Windermere. So we took our time getting away at 10:00. We may have become the conscientious people who cleaned up the hut each morning…

I took heaps of photos as we crossed the open plateau (i.e. code for “this was a good track”)

The morning had been easy, pleasant walking. But as on the first day, the track deteriorated in the afternoon. There were rocky trip hazards and uncomfortably deep steps, where water had eroded deep gutters. This became a repetitive sting-in-the-tail experience for most days of the Overland Track walk. Graham was starting to feel the effects of exertion.

Cheered by the expansive scenery framed by Mount Oakleigh and Mount Pelion East, any discomfort experienced on day two was put firmly behind us.

Reaching Windermere Hut by 2:30pm meant we had time to explore and…take more photos! James even went for a swim in Lake Windermere—winning a $20 bet in the process.

We had time to chat and get to know our fellow travellers better. As with all groups of strangers, there were some who enjoyed company and others who kept silent and away. However, socialising in the evenings was an enjoyable aspect of our family’s experience and is a large part of our Overland Track memory.

Overland Track Day 3: Windermere to Pelion (17km)

The next morning we got away just after 8am and were treated to easy walking through moorland landscapes.

With distracting scenery like this, it was easy to miss your footing—even on these good tracks—when crossing the moorlands.

Hard slog to Pelion – The Innes track

After looking deep into the Forth Valley we ascended through a forested hill. Then we started the descent to Pelion Creek. (I really enjoyed this lightly forested track, and took too many photos!)

Pelion Creek is the half-way point of the third day’s walk and provided a welcome stop for our lunch. We refilled our water bottles. Then took a break before starting the second, more difficult half of the track—the old Innes track.

Then we thought we would never reach the Forth River. But after finally reaching it we took a short break at this (lowest) point on the track. Now we had to face the never-ending uphill slog through the myrtle-beech forest—made worse by the bad track conditions.

In places the track took on the appearance of a muddy slow-flowing creek. Many feet over many years on this 1890’s track has eroded the forest floor down to bare rock and mud and exposed large tree roots. This must be damaging the health of the rain forest. I feel lucky that we managed to navigate these slippery rocky tracks without mishap!

New Pelion hut

New Pelion hut was one of the newer and largest huts on the track in 2017. Brian having arrived before us—actually everyone arrived before us—greeted us with “I’ve made you a cuppa and I’ve got a steak cooking for you, Graham” (joke).

It was 5:30pm, and our longest day’s walk. We sat out on the helipad to watch the daylight fade. That night Brian, Dennis and our family had a room to ourselves. Really, where did Dennis get that amazing squeaky yellow sleeping mat?

Overland Track Day 4: Pelion to Kia Ora hut (8.6 km)

We were the last to leave the Pelion hut on day four (Pelion to Kia Ora hut, 8.6km). We did a final clean-up of the hut, closing the windows and sweeping the floor and left after 9:00am.

A trek guide told us the night before, it would be a stick day. We soon worked out what he meant as we walked steadily uphill on a track with deep steps , uneven rocks and tree roots to reach Pelion Gap. Actually, I didn’t mind this part of the track because it was a bright clear day and the track was mostly dry.

From the platform at Pelion Gap there are side-walks to Mt Ossa and Mt Pelion East. We chose to have a leisurely lunch and a rest.

Pinestone Valley was classic Overland track—with Cathedral Mountain (top-L), Falling-down Mountain (top-R) and eroded slippery rocky track (bottom-R). In April it was still hot. So we were grateful to cool off and refill our water bottles at the Pinestone Valley Creek crossing.

Kia Ora hut

We reached Kia Ora hut by 3pm. James was keen to take a swim in the Kia Ora creek, so I chaperoned him. Naturally I couldn’t resist taking an icy dip too. To preserve modesty I went into the water in my undies. But I hadn’t thought it through…I had no towel or change of clothes. So I had to stay wet most of that night!

In this small cozy hut, the sleeping platforms were right next to the dining tables, so Graham and I were able to snuggle-up in our sleeping bags and still take part in the evening chatter. James stayed up playing cards long after I fell asleep. I didn’t even hear Graham snoring!

Part of the daily morning ritual was lining up at the lou with toilet paper in hand. The nearby tank of water was for washing hands and brushing teeth. I found a good splash of the icy liquid on my face was good for waking up, too.

Overland Track Day 5: Kia Ora to Windy Ridge (9.6 km)

Day five saw us get away by 9:30am. Walking through the forest that morning was pleasant, despite the tree roots. When we found a fallen log to sit on, chocolate, dried fruit and nuts tasted so good!

Our lunch stop was at the old Du Cane hut. Graham stayed in this hut in the 90’s and remembers it being infested with rats (and fleas?). I wonder if he used this ingenious open-air bog?

Although a little monotonous, the walk through the rainforest was pleasant up to the junction with Hartnett Falls.

Then the ascent (Du Cane Gap) and subsequent descent (Windy Ridge) was a tedious walk. The track was too similar to the Innes track (day three). Finally we were pleased to see the canopy open up and rainforest give way to the eucalypts on Windy Ridge. We arrived at the Bert Nichols hut at 3:00pm.

Bert Nichols hut

The Bert Nichols hut is the most modern of the huts. The eating and sleeping areas are well separated. Also there is plenty of airy space for drying wet clothes and boots. But it had the longest trek to the (almost) smelliest toilet. Fortunately the sparkling night sky was worth the inevitable mid-night trek!

On the last night our group of Overland-trekkers were wanting to talk and celebrate. We felt like comrades on an epic journey. So two of our more seasoned adventurers organised a quiz, with a prize of donated left-over food treats. Some may have considered the prize to be a heavy booby-prize to carry out to Narcissus. Despite this, the competition was fierce, and great fun! It was a fitting farewell. And no, team nerd did not win the prize!

Overland Track Day 6: Windy Ridge to Narcissus (9 km)

The final day’s walk was as leisurely and pretty as described in the official guide book. We got away at 8am. The drier track through mostly heath and eucalypt forest was not as badly eroded as the wet-forest tracks.

We reached the junction to the Pine Valley hut (our next walk!) well before mid-day; but we stopped for an early lunch anyway.

As we walked the second-half of the track we started meeting people walking the opposite direction. Many were out for a day walk, and a few were headed to Pine Valley. We stopped and chatted because we had plenty of time to make the 3:30pm ferry.

Approaching the Narcissus River, one week’s growth, pain and exhaustion shows clearly in Graham’s face. But the swing bridge over the Narcissus River signaled the final short walk of the Overland Track!

When Graham and I arrived, James had made us a warming hot cup of tea! We reached the hut just before 1pm. So we were in plenty of time for our 3:30pm pre-booked boat ride across Lake St Clair to Cynthia Bay.

At journey’s end there was relaxed happy chatter as people waited at Narcissus for the ferry boat across Lake St Clair.

Travel home

We arrived at lake St Clair too late to use the free showers. I don’t think it is an accident that the public showers close around mid afternoon! Do be aware that there are few if any options for eating at this end of the Overland Track.

Trying to find affordable and convenient transport from Lake St Clair to Cradle Mountain, Launceston or Branxholm was impossible. So we were pleased to pile into our little Feroza 4WD for the four-hour drive home. (A week before we started the walk, we had driven two cars to the Lake St Clair car park and left the Feroza behind.)

Google slide show

You can view our images as a slide show here.

My Reflections

As the days go by since we completed the walk, I enjoy the experience more and more. This is a cliché, but it was a great family-bonding experience as we looked out for each other. I was proud of James! He was so cheerful and helpful.

For me, walking in the heart of the Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area was about enjoying nature, breathing in the scenery and noticing the plants and wildlife.

However, I feel that the badly eroded sections of track robbed me of much of this experience. I spent far too much of the walk watching my feet and looking for the next rock to place my foot.

I think there is still some way to go to upgrade the tracks to meet the standard for an international iconic walking track.

Tin Dragon Cottages

If you are interested in learning about other walks in Tasmania, or staying with us at Tin Dragon Trail Cottages, you might enjoy reading our Blog. Of course, you may like to subscribe so you can receive our latest published articles, too!

We last visited Meadstone Falls in 2016 when we were researching content for a blog about skinny dipping in our region. So after unusually good rainfall this summer, we thought it would be interesting to revisit this waterfall. The deep upstream rock pools make this an inviting destination on a hot summer’s day!

Getting to Meadstone Falls

We continued driving up the hill on the well-formed road till we reached an intersection. Here we turned right as indicated by a small sign – Falls. Continuing on, was another left-hand turn, as we started driving downhill. The final turn-off was well sign posted – Meadstone Falls (Road closed).

Road to Meadstone Falls Closed

When we drove to Meadstone Falls in 2016, the road had been excavated to prevent vehicle access – see the photo above. But our trusty short-wheel-base Feroza got across!

On this recent trip (2021) however, we found the road had been graded and the excavated road hazard filled in. I imagine this was to ensure access for emergency vehicles. Last year this region was endangered by bush fires.

So, on we drove – feeling confident! Till we reached the old bridge. I remembered this had been dodgy last time. But now the bridge had completely collapsed.

Collapsed Bridge

Rough Road

After the bridge obstacle, the road becomes very rough. It really is 4WD only after this point.

Meadstone Falls Walking Track

After the river-crossing it is only about 2.5 km to the Mount Puzzler Reserve camp site and the start of the walking track.

The track is easy to follow. Although rarely accessed, in recent years some hikers have placed rock cairns and tapes (now faded) which make the track easy to find. The walk to the Meadstone Falls is nearly one-hour (one way) and the walk down to the river is about a further 30 minutes.

Walk to the Falls

The walk through dry sclerophyll forest is a pleasant walk. The river bed drops away till the amazing dolerite ravine and waterfall are revealed. There is a final short steep track down to the look out platform.

The lookout over Meadstone Falls is not being maintained. So we do not recommend you walk out onto the platform! It’s a long way down… This year there was more water in the St Paul’s River. (If you want to see what the waterfall looks like after a dumping of rain, then take a look at this image.

The Rock Pools above the Falls

The scramble down to the river is well worth the extra effort. But be careful, because the little-used track can be covered with dry leaves and is slippery. There is a rock scramble across the river too, if you want to enjoy the best-ever rock pool! (Take a look at our skinny dipping photos from 2016).

On this occasion we didn’t swim! Although the slight breeze and cool temperature was ideal for walking, it was far too cold for swimming! It was very peaceful gazing into the water watching the small fish and other aquatic life darting around.

Apparently you can scramble further down the river to the top of the waterfall. We haven’t attempted this. I imagine the river would have to be really dry to make this extra exploration feasible!

If you are interested in learning about other walks in Tasmania, or staying with us at Tin Dragon Trail Cottages, you might enjoy reading our Blog. Of course, you may like to subscribe so you can receive our latest published articles, too!

Pencil Pine Track

Previously we have explored the walks around Dove Lake and Marions Lookout, completed the Overland Track and had a failed (due to weather) attempt to climb Cradle Mountain. But we haven’t explored the tracks starting near the Cradle Mountain Interpretation Centre (and Ranger Station). This is our account of walking the Pencil Pine Track.

Pencil Pine track: map

Locating the start of the Pencil Pine track

If you aren’t familiar with the area around the Cradle Mountain Lodge and the Ranger Station, you may think the start of this track is a well kept secret. In fact we found the start of the track by accident!

Having checked in to the Cradle Mountain Hotel the previous afternoon, we drove down to the Ranger Station. We were wondering if there may be some information about the walk in the Interpretation Centre, but there wasn’t. There was no obvious signage indicating the start of the track. However on the map the track is shown to intersect with the Enchanted Walk and the Speeler track near the Cradle Mountain Lodge.

We took a stroll around Pencil Pine Creek on the Enchanted walk. As you can see from our photo, this track is suitable for all family members. The fist part of the walk is even wheel-chair accessible, and it is such a scenic walk!

Graham came off the Pencil Pine Creek walking bridge and happened to glance over to his left into the rainforest. And there, partially obscured by a fallen tree, was a small track sign for the Pencil Pine track. Great! So now we knew where to start the walk the next morning.

Walking the Pencil Pine Track

The track through the rainforest

This is certainly a lesser known walking track! It is not well maintained and you need to be vigilant to find and follow the pink tapes.

We drove from our hotel to the Ranger Station, where we parked our car. It had been raining overnight and when we started the walk it was still misty and wet. Patches of snow were on the ground.

This was the first time we had used chains on our shoes. The chains were immediately helpful with walking over the slippery trees roots in the rainforest. And to be honest, I am not sure that I could have completed the walk without them,

Walking in the rainforest here reminded me of the walk up to the Labyrinth in the Pine Valley. Even the weather conditions were similar. It was truly enchanted as the trail followed Pencil Pine Creek.

Out into the open

The rainforest track starts a gradual climb as you leave the creek behind. Then the landscape opens up revealing low alpine scrub.

We really enjoyed this section of the track, because of the snow, and the contrasting vegetation. It was an easy stretch of the walk. So it was easy to daydream, take photos and enjoy walking.

Then in an out of scrub and forest

Some parts of the track were overgrown by scrub — hence the term scrub-bashing comes to mind. The expansive snow drifts were soon exchanged for scrubby bush then forest once more.

As the track wound back towards Pencil Pine Creek, we could see deep down into the ravine. In this short video, I attempt to give you an idea of depth of the ravine. The wind was ripping and I couldn’t keep the snow flakes off my camera lens.

Lunch in the forest

We felt we had walked far enough to take a break. And this scenic area of forest seemed a good place to stop for a cup of hot tea and a piece of Graham’s 70th birthday cake. Little did we suspect that the walk so far had been a walk in the park compared to what was to follow!

Scrambling around the escarpment

A short distance past our lunch stop, there was a land slip in the forest. So we needed to abandon the marked track to climb over and under trees while trying not to slip down into the ravine. This may have seemed scary enough, but it actually got worse!

We had lost sight of the pink markers, just as I looked up over my shoulder to see markers several metres above my head over a rock face.

Please don’t tell me that is the track. Graham: It is. So this is where we turn round and head back? No said Graham We can do this!

After scrambling up the first rock ledge, I stopped to take a photo. I braced myself against the escarpment to take my camera out of its bag. Then I decided to take a short video in order to show you the depth of the ravine. But the two-dimensional video doesn’t really do it justice. It was easy to get dizzy looking down!

But it got worse before it got better

You may have noticed the overgrown bush Graham was pushing through? Well on one side prickly bushes such as Richea scoparia were pushing out and on the other side of the very narrow track, there was a ravine. I was using three points of contact to scramble up the rocks-holding on to rock crevices and tree roots.

On at least two occasions my bottom became the fourth point of contact. If you have read my previous Blogs, you may recall that my right knee was de-gloved in a bicycle accident. So I have little strength in this knee. Hence my need to haul myself up on to my bottom! My adrenalin/scared meter was close to maxing out!

I was too focused on survival to take photos.

The alpine plateau

After about 1 km of rock scrambling it was a relief to be up on the alpine plateau.

Up on the plateau, there were few trees – just button grass.

Button grass torture

If you have ever had the pleasure of walking through button grass, you will understand the heading for this paragraph! The Pencil Pine track now weaves its way downhill through endless button grass. So we were treated to ankle-deep water and shoe-sucking mud. And don’t forget the ever present threat of unseen black holes waiting to break an ankle.

Coming down off the plateau, it was often difficult to find the track markers. It was too easy to start following animal trails as the actual track weaves in and out of alpine bush.

Junction of the Speeler and King Billy Tracks.

Finally the Pencil Pine track finishes at the junction of the Speeler and King Billy tracks. In this photo you can see the ice, snow and slushy mud on the Pencil Pine track.

Two-to-three hours for the Pencil Pine circuit is a misleading underestimate! We got to this junction after about four hours.

We followed the King Billy track to the Cradle Mountain lodge. Once here you can either head along the road back to the Ranger Station car park, or take the Enchanted Walk back. The Enchanted Walk is a much more enjoyable route. Once this is done, cross the road to return to the car park (or bus stop) at the Interpretation Centre!

In Summary

The Pencil Pine track has all the elements of a classic grade 4 walk in Tasmania! Namely, slippery tree roots, scary ravines, slippery rock scrambles, button grass, water features and sections where the track markers can’t be found. Of course, for those in the know, water features is code for: creek and waterfall crossings, and ankle-deep shoe-sucking mud. Why do we do this? Well, Graham and I won’t be lining up to repeat the Pencil Pine track walk!

Hint: It really is best to start this walk from off the Enchanted Walk, because scrambling down the escarpment looking into the ravine would be far too scary!

If you are interested in learning about other walks in Tasmania, or staying with us at Tin Dragon Trail Cottages, you might enjoy reading our Blog. Of course, you may like to subscribe so you can receive our latest published articles, too!